I have some questions about ak's

[ACE_187]

Ok for educational purposes (since I'm not even allowed to own a gun) only I have some questions about ak-47s.

First, if you were able to connect the disconnect to the safety thing behind it, and connect that to the bolt somehow, with modifications, and in a way that it wouldn't get in the way of the bolt when it cycles, it would be fully automatic. What would happen is whenever the bolt closed it would pull the disconnect back and release the hammer (as long as the trigger was held down and the sear wouldnt catch it).

Ok but from what I hear that is nearly impossible. It could be done but not easily. My next question is what parts are NEEDED to change to convert one? And how do they work? I have looked at full auto sears, disconnects and I dont understand how replacing those parts would make the rifle fully automatic. To have a reliable full auto ak it seems like it's a must to make it to where the bolt closing causes the disconnect to be released. I don't see how those parts do that. And if so what modifications are needed? I've heard you have to remove part of the rail on one side or something.

[ACE_187]

I've also heard that simply tying the disconnect back and filing the firing pin to a point works but I doubt it would put enough pressure to fire. I could be wrong though. Even if it did work though it seems unreliable and would fail to fire a lot.

[ilovechronic]

I've also heard that simply tying the disconnect back and filing the firing pin to a point works but I doubt it would put enough pressure to fire. I could be wrong though. Even if it did work though it seems unreliable and would fail to fire a lot.

Filing firing pins is a myth.

[sepht]

You need to slow down the hammer so that the bolt fully closes on the barrel before firing. If you just slam fire it, the hammer wont have enough momentum for automatic fire. The best you're going to get is two fast shots then nothing. You also run the risk of the bullet firing without the barrel fully closed, which will make your gun blow up.

Filing the firing pin down only works with a certain brand of bullet that has a very sensitive primer. I think it's Remington bullets but I'm not sure.

[ACE_187]

You need to slow down the hammer so that the bolt fully closes on the barrel before firing. If you just slam fire it, the hammer wont have enough momentum for automatic fire. The best you're going to get is two fast shots then nothing. You also run the risk of the bullet firing without the barrel fully closed, which will make your gun blow up.

Filing the firing pin down only works with a certain brand of bullet that has a very sensitive primer. I think it's Remington bullets but I'm not sure.

What I was talking about, the bolt would be closed before it released the hammer, but most full autos there is only a little bit of a delay. the hammer is usually released right before the bolt is fully closed which would mean this would have less rate of fire the way i'm talking.

But think about it. drill a hole in the back of the dust plate beside the release button. maybe put a hook screw in the stock, and tie one end to the disconnect wrap it around the screw and tie that end to the bolt, so whenever the bolt is closed the chord is pulling the disconnect off the hammer, as long as the bolt is closed the only thing that would be holding the hammer is the sear attatched to the trigger, but until the bolt is closed the disconnect holds the hammer back. the only problem is getting it to work smoothe but in theory it's simple.

[ACE_187]

Filing firing pins is a myth.

The way it was described it seems like it might work. it's putting more pressure on a smaller area if the pin is sharp, and just taking out or tying back the disconnect.

[ilovechronic]

The way it was described it seems like it might work. it's putting more pressure on a smaller area if the pin is sharp, and just taking out or tying back the disconnect.

It would render the gun inoperable.

[ACE_187]

It would render the gun inoperable.

No not really. It would at least fire one shot and fail to fire on the second round unless filing it to a finer point caused it to break or something.

[virgil caine]

im not going to bother to explain why it woudlent work as we have gone into this in depth in another thread but no it wont probably the only ''easy'' way to get full auto on a sks or ak is to jam the fireing pin in the forward position and let it slam fire away but that is horribly dangerous there is no quick fix of file this file that hurdeedurr 5 minute full auto it requires replacement of allmost the entire trigger group parts on the bolt and modification to the recievier


if anything it would be a longer fireing pin to cause accidental full auto than too short i do know since the sks has a free floating pin with no fireing pin spring except the like pre 1952 russians that werent refurbished commercial hunting ammo has much softer primers and can double sometimes due to the pin smacking the primer when the bolt cycles

[ACE_187]

im not going to bother to explain why it woudlent work as we have gone into this in depth in another thread but no it wont probably the only ''easy'' way to get full auto on a sks or ak is to jam the fireing pin in the forward position and let it slam fire away but that is horribly dangerous there is no quick fix of file this file that hurdeedurr 5 minute full auto it requires replacement of allmost the entire trigger group parts on the bolt and modification to the recievier


if anything it would be a longer fireing pin to cause accidental full auto than too short i do know since the sks has a free floating pin with no fireing pin spring except the like pre 1952 russians that werent refurbished commercial hunting ammo has much softer primers and can double sometimes due to the pin smacking the primer when the bolt cycles

READ. What I'm talking about wouldn't cause it to slam fire. If you could get the chord to work smoothly the gun would stop when you let off the trigger. The disconnect, or whatever it is in an ak BEHIND THE HAMMER only holds it when the hammer is all the way back, put there by the bolt, but when you do what I was talking about, the bolt returning would cause it to release it, and if you had the trigger held down, the sear (or whatever is connected to the trigger that holds the hammer) wouldn't catch it until you let go of the trigger.

EDIT: and if all you wanted is for it to slam fire you can do that by tying a string around the trigger, grip and bolt. You dont need to mess with the firing pin but I think this is illegal too. What I'm talking about is kind of the same theory but instead of the trigger, you tie the disconnect to the bolt, but you need to have something behind it to wrap it around, and the difference is when you let off the trigger the sear catches the hammer, instead of the bolt closing and causing the trigger to pull like the other way.

[Vargus]

I think it will help explain things a lot better once you realize that the rail has to be slotted since the auto sear's leg sticks up and out of that slot. The bolt carrier coming back will push the auto sear downward, the sear on it catching the hammer. The bolt carrier returns forward, uncovering the auto sear which then raises upward, letting go of the hammer.

[ZX9R]

I've also heard that simply tying the disconnect back and filing the firing pin to a point works but I doubt it would put enough pressure to fire. I could be wrong though. Even if it did work though it seems unreliable and would fail to fire a lot.

Fixing the disconnect is unwise.

Filing the firing pin will potentially produce light or no primer strikes causing the weapon not to fire.

Only retards think full auto fire is related to the "firing pin".

Guess that puts you in the same boat as them as?


Only method (as mentioned above) would be to fix a firing pin (specially one that is free floating like in an AR15) in a forward position.

However this as well would be unwise.


The way it was described it seems like it might work. it's putting more pressure on a smaller area if the pin is sharp, and just taking out or tying back the disconnect.

So what?

Think about the purpose of the firing pin.

Now ask yourself what difference would a filed or non filed pin make?

Answer is none -- except potentially causing the pin not to strike the primer and igniting the cartridge.

[LavaRed]

except potentially causing the pin not to strike the primer and igniting the cartridge.

Or even worse, puncturing the primer and causing the gasses to exit through the back, leading to catastrophic cartridge failure.

[ACE_187]

I think it will help explain things a lot better once you realize that the rail has to be slotted since the auto sear's leg sticks up and out of that slot. The bolt carrier coming back will push the auto sear downward, the sear on it catching the hammer. The bolt carrier returns forward, uncovering the auto sear which then raises upward, letting go of the hammer.

http://www.ak-47.net/ak-47/comp/trigger.php

I was thinking the sear was the thing connected to the trigger that catches the hammer when you let go of the trigger (in front) and the disconnect was the thing that catches it when it fires, before you let go of the trigger.

In this diagram, what I thought was the disconnect (or what looks similar) is labeled "semi auto fire sear" (the thing behind the hammer).

I'm kind of confused. But you are saying that the only changes that have to make to the reciever is putting a notch in the rail or something?

I thought that thing attatched to the trigger (5) was the semi auto sear and the part with the '10' above it was the auto sear that replaced it. Am I wrong about that?

[Vargus]

Well, the rail does need to be notched so the auto sear will fit, but you also need a disconnector that will be tripped by the auto sear. Typically they have a leg that is cut so that an auto sear will not trip it. The same thing on AR's. Here are a semi and auto disconnector for an AR:
http://www.ar15.com/content/legal/ar15-m16parts/disconnector.gif

Thats about as far as the specifics that I know on the full auto AK. He rest is just the principles of full-auto mechanisms which share a lot of commonality.