recent aquisition and possible refinishing(LAVARED NEEDED)

[ilovechronic]

So here it is
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w148/rp1111_2007/IMG_0752.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w148/rp1111_2007/IMG_0756.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w148/rp1111_2007/IMG_0753.jpg

I want to dura coat it matte black like an ar15.
would this product work?:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=154782&t=11082005

i called the smith and he said 140$ for the bead blasting and refinish.

I called my step unc who does some painting and he said he would do it for free if i bought the paint. He is experienced and has the proper tool to do it.

I am looking for someone who has a bead blaster right now. So lavaRED I wanted to knaow what media do you use to blast it and do you have any site that could help me understand the proces of beadblast. ike do i have to sand also?

Could you use light sand paper instead?

Also, the last thing, the current color of the hammer and trigg is just plain metal poor finish. I was thinking of maybe chrome. A friend suggest gold. But even like duracoat tan and matte black would be cool, Im in the desert.

I want your guys input on the trigger and hammer color ideas.


Also, I traded my saiga ak 7.62x39 for it. i know its worth a little more than the taurus 38 speacial. but he owes me for 110$ worth of ammo. Andhe agreed if he get s a good price for it because of the current desperation for assualt style rifles he would kick me 25-50$ back on top.

I payed 300 for the Ak.
i wouldnt do this for a stranger but only for a friend. i never used the ak and i just wanted a revolver in my collection. I have 3 good rifles already that all use the same cal.
Thanks, later.

[LavaRed]

I've never used beadblasting, to be honest. A wire brush on a drill or dremel, plus some 400 grit sandpaper for the finer touches has been sufficient.
After that, some duracoat will finish it up nicely.

Chrome the hammer, trigger, and cylinder release.

I know that they can apply black oxide finishes over industrial chrome, and it is very very resistant, but I am not familiar with the intricacies of the process.

In a nutshell, drill + fine wire brush + 400 grit sandpaper is good enough.

Be reminded that the gun should be painted within a few hours of being polished, at the most, lest rust should begin appearing and mess up the paint later.
Also, paint wears really fast on moving parts. I'm not a friend of paint after my experience with my Browning; I'd much rather have it chromed and oxide finished over the chrome.

[ilovechronic]

Im gonna use the duracoat blue remover, the chemical method, duraphos, degreaser and airbrush on the dura coat matt black #4

an experienced painter is gonna help me do this airbrushing.

[5.56 SS109]

Is that gun's frame even steel?

Because, if not, that blue remover isn't going to do anything.

[ilovechronic]

Is that gun's frame even steel?

Because, if not, that blue remover isn't going to do anything.

I assume so, what do you thing it is plastic? it is not the unltralight model.

But it is something i will double check.

[5.56 SS109]

I always figured the frames were aluminum.

[Groundhog whacka]

Just curious but from your pics the finish looks to be in pretty good shape, why fuck with it?

I am not a fan of the Duracoat myself. I did the receiver on my AK and it was pretty easily scratched. I ended up stripping it and cold bluing it. I personally would not trade a good blue job for duracoat.

[LavaRed]

Just curious but from your pics the finish looks to be in pretty good shape, why fuck with it?

I am not a fan of the Duracoat myself. I did the receiver on my AK and it was pretty easily scratched. I ended up stripping it and cold bluing it. I personally would not trade a good blue job for duracoat.

^
This

But seriously, I'd have it rough chromed and then black oxide over that.

Its almost impossible to remove

[ilovechronic]

I dont like the blue because it is shiny. and whenever you touch it it leaves grease spots. I want it to be matte black finish.

Also the reason I thought of duracoat is:
theshop owner at the gun smith/shop gave me a qoute of 140$ to bead blast it and what he called a "bead blasted blue" to make it matte. i dont really want that. I want a matte black finish like an ar15.

This has nt been set in stone that is why i am looking for input.

Also. Ground hog whack did you use dura phos or perkarize it befor you sprayed on the finish. Did you use the "spray can duracoat" or the kid you mix yourself.

Also it is HOT here in the sumer. up to 120 in the shade. Some parts of the desert get to 130. It also probably gets high because all the concrete retains here.

So more sweating here and I have always heard blueing rusts easy.

Also I like to personalize and customize my guns. Thats why I wanted to get the trig and hammer colored or something.

Oh and yyou are right the finish is in decent shap except for 1 little 3-4 mm scratch on the barrel. The original owner CC'd it and then traded my friend for the walther p-22 i traded my friend. Then I saw the 38 sp and felt I had to have a revolver now, So i tradd the gun I owned that had the closest value and that I used the least.

He got a good deal because he can sell that ak for more than its worth right now. He could probably get 500$ for a saiga 7.62x39 right now from someone that cant find one and really wants one.

[ilovechronic]

I always figured the frames were aluminum.

They have a titanium models. They may have light weight models but this particular model is made from blued steel.

Construction: Steel
Finish: Blue

Oh and this is +p rated.

With revolvers having a light aluminum frame in my opinion would be a drawback in accuracy and recoil. I say accuracy because the gun being lighter would result in more recoil and make follow up shot harder or less accurate.

ultralights have alot of recoil when you have a 2 in barrel and anything 38sp(espeacially +p) and bigger.

The good thing about having ultralights is that it is easier and lighter to carry.
Also an interesting thing is on the top of the gun and in the sight well leading to the front sight the whole top of the gun is a more matte black. Like the color I want.

Also chroming or nickle plating the whole gun is out of the picture. I am not a fan of chrome and nickel guns. I would like to do something to the trig and hammer though. It could even be gold.

In fact this blueing PISSES ME OFF. No matter if I whipe as soon as it get touched it leaaves a grease spot.

Lavared:

"Black oxides on steel are not suitable for severe outdoor applications or corrosive environments, but they can provide superior humidity cabinet results with proper supplementary coating. Black Oxides on Stainless steel and/or brass alloys will yield excellent corrosion protection, primarily due to their inherent properties."

Also there is this:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=888547


http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc145/wrangler5/Makarov%20Duracoat%20Images/Img5.jpg
This is what i want to have a finish like that^ It doesnt have to be done the same way.

There are a few ways you can prep the gun for the finish to adhear. Sand blasting or phosphating/perkarizing.

[ilovechronic]

update:

The gun is being refinished by a licensed duracoater. i went with H and K black. he said he would paint it in that and if I didnt like it he would repaint it for free. Its like a matte black. He included painting the hammer and trigger in the $125.00 fee. I am going with the coyote brown or whatever brwon. I was going to do desert tan but he said since the parts wear and it is a light color it would show dirt faster and look more discolored/warn.

It is $125.00 for the total job. The local gunstore gave me a $140.00 bid and he said it would be like a "bead blasted blue" to make it matte. Which sounded to me that he wasnt going to refinish it but only rough up the original finish to make i look matte.

I also got my own airbrush and have been starting. The guy I met said he would cut me off small quantities of the proper duracoat supplies so i can practice on something like scrap steel. Because it would have cost over 100$ to get all the proper duracoat supplies, which would finish up to 10 rifles but I dont need that much yet.

[5.56 SS109]

Usually H&K Black means semi-gloss.

I may be wrong about the actual Duracoat color though.

[ilovechronic]

ITS HERE AND ITS DONE.
Before
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w148/rp1111_2007/IMG_0752.jpg
After
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w148/rp1111_2007/IMG_0792.jpg

[The Swede]

I'm actually impressed! Looks really good!

From looking like cheap plastic to that. Nice

[The Savage]

I would of went for a darker colour instead of the tan but the HK black is pretty sexy.

[ilovechronic]

Thanks guy, glad you like it. All that really matter is that I like it. and I really do like it.

[blue_monday]

Damn that looks nice. I should do it to some of mine.

[LavaRed]

I like your gun :D