Winchester wtf edition.

[Virus]

Alright guys, this one has me stumped.

Our shooting team is starting to expand and apparently the guy running the program tracked down some mauser actions for us. Took a look at them and this is what we have:

3 Winchester M70 (2 pre '64, 1 1990's? era XTR)

2 Remington M700

Now I know how to work on a remmy action and bolt as well as winchester actions and bolts, but someone explain this to me.

On one of the winchester actions, the safety selector is located on the bolt, none of the positions are marked.

It appears to have 3 positions.

Fire

Safe with the action being able to cycle

Safe with the action not being able to cycle and only selectable with the bolt closed.

1. Why is this done this way?

2. Is there anything special about these kinds of bolts in terms of making an action more precise. The game plan right now is to blue print all of them.

[The Savage]

I think thats typical of all Mod 70/670's to have the three-possition saftey on the bolt. Don't quote me on it but i think it should be the same process as a remmy to tweak, with the mating surfaces of the lugs being a major player.

The three possition safty is there so you can lock the trigger and keep the rifle "safe" while you chamber and eject all the rounds, like say, when you empty out the mag on something with a blind magazine.

[Freelance Tax Collector]

As a Remington guy, I've always scratched my head over that one too. I think there's two types of Winchester guys, those who don't care and those who are confused over this issue. As you know, the model 70 action is based on the Mauser 98, as the 700 is based on the 1917 Enfield.

In addition to blueprinting the action, have you considered doing a new spring for better locktime? I think besides that all you can really do is lap the bolt lugs, but there wouldn't be much point in doing that unless you took off the barrel and trued the threads. Just make sure the headspace is dead on.

[Virus]

I'll consider it, I'll post a detail strip of the bolt tomorrow, It looks like you just unscrew the back end of it and the guts slide out.

The weird thing about the third safety is that the trigger can move, but in the locked safety it won't move. I'm curious about the mechanics of it now.

[The Savage]

I'm curious about the mechanics of it now.

Man, those are famous last words! Oh well atleast it's pretty common so if you have dramas someone is bound to be able to help you.... Not like my air rifle, I got curious about that several years ago and the saftey still dont work :D .

[Virus]

Lol It's getting photographed as it comes apart, I should be okay.

[LavaRed]

Lol It's getting photographed as it comes apart, I should be okay.

If memory serves its just like a k98 bolt. So if you run into any problems, I'll film the sequence of me taking my sniper k98 bolt apart.
Oh, and I just polished that bolt with a hand polisher and it worked a charm on the gun.

[5.56 SS109]

All the blueprinting and custom tuning is what scares me away from precision rifles.

That said, I wish you the best of luck and hope you guys can build some tack drivers with minimal money and effort :D

[Virus]

All the blueprinting and custom tuning is what scares me away from precision rifles.

That said, I wish you the best of luck and hope you guys can build some tack drivers with minimal money and effort :D

I got this particular rifle down to 3/4 MOA with the stock barrel and that's with a bad crown believe it or not.

I also fixed the swivel stud problem with it, and really the last thing to do is refinish it and throw some nice glass on it (when I get money).

I also did a stock mod and shaved about a half pound off of the rifle at the expense of recoil that sucks, but it's a hunting rifle, not a tack driver.

[5.56 SS109]

Well, all this talk of bolt actions has piqued my interest.

So, I'm going to ask a pretty random question.

Do you have any experience with the Steyr Pro Hunter?