Archived: The Ultimate Fake ID Guide Version 6

[Skybar]

##DELETED##

[mttddd]

is this sites custom multispecs actually legit? http://www.anonym.to/?http://novcon.info

[stylezidz]

Originally Posted by mkmk

He's just not doing it right, paper works great.

Is there a laminator I can pickup at office depot or something, or do I have to buy a new one online? Which laminator do you recommend.

I will give the stamp thing some more work. The holo shows up fine, it just comes out super messed up and blurry, because my stamp is really crappy (barely embossed). So when I stamp the pearl ex, the pearl ex gets everywhere, on the stamp itself and the background. So when I stamp the teslin, it's like the DMV stamp with tons of debris everywhere.

I do have the updated CA 2010 template.

Thanks for your help everyone

[stylezidz]

One more question.

I also bought the arcadiaID magnetic strip encoder... I hope that is okay from there, lol. Will that work?

[researchkitty]

Their encoder is fine, just expensive vs ebay.

[stylezidz]

Another question. Besides the stamp question I asked above.

I can't get PDFCenter to load on my computer, I keep getting an error when I open the install setup file. I am running 32bit windows vista. Do I need to run a virtual machine with winxp?

Also, when i make the 1d barcode for my CA ID, and i just copy the barcode into photoshop. Can I just resize the 1d barcode? to fit in the card? That won't mess up the barcode being read?

[stylezidz]

Another question. I just went and picked up a GBC H110 Laminator just now.

After I stamp the teslin with the pearl ex and run it through the laminator, it makes the stamp/pearlex look worse and almost disappear. Something I am doing wrong?

[sledgehammer]

Originally Posted by stylezidz

Another question. I just went and picked up a GBC H110 Laminator just now.

After I stamp the teslin with the pearl ex and run it through the laminator, it makes the stamp/pearlex look worse and almost disappear. Something I am doing wrong?

Originally Posted by stylezidz

Another question. I just went and picked up a GBC H110 Laminator just now.

After I stamp the teslin with the pearl ex and run it through the laminator, it makes the stamp/pearlex look worse and almost disappear. Something I am doing wrong?

Read this thread in its entirety.
hxxp://www.bombshock.com/forum/money-fake-id-free-living/1214-official-novelty-id-thread-all-novelty-questions.html

California's hologram is a cunt bitch twat who needs to be tamed.

Your first concern should be realizing your fucking up in making the stamp. The stamp kit comes with instructions. If you follow them EXACTLY you cannot create a bad stamp. Most likely you are not scrubbing hard enough with the brush. Apply pressure. You want to apply more pressure than you would think. You have to dig out the crevasses and this requires pressure!

Your second concern should be in analyzing the California hologram. Now some people who make calis say the stamp method works for them, however I suggest silk screening. The stamp method does work, and I have stamped holos from other states that look thick, bright, and detailed. However the california holo is a different animal.

The california holo has three stages.
1.) Reflecting light fully
2.) Kind of reflecting light...Sparkling (faintly)
3.) Not reflecting light

When the california holo reflects light (stage 1) it looks 100% gold, but on closer inspection one realizes its mostly gold, and a bit green.
When the california holo is kind of relfecting light, but sparkeling more (stage 2) Its sparkling gold and green.
When the california holos is reflection no light (stage 3) it is grey/silver with a bit of dark green.

If you suspect their is no green in the holo, simply compare a a 100% int gold holo to the real thing, and then it will be obvious their is green in the holo.

What the three stages indicate, is that the california holo is comprised of interference gold, interference green, a dark green, and a grey/silver color.

Knowing that interference green/gold is either green/gold or greyish/silver one can assume that the interference green and gold account for the interference colors as well as the grey/silver color. All that is left is a solid dark green (which is where the spring/forest green that mkmk pointed out comes in).

So why shouldn't the stamp method work (or work as well) with california. This comes down to two points:
1.) Stage 3 of a real california holo (when the holo is not reflecting light, and subsequently appears grey/silver) is thick with color. Yet when not reflecting, interference powder is not thick grey/silver, but a more faint grey/silver.
2.) The "texture" of the holo is of a part grainy, part blended feel. Yet stamped, dry pearl-ex is only grainy.

So you need everything the stamp method provides, along with a thicker grey/silver stage 3, and a more blended look. Thankfully for us both of these are obtained from silk screening the holos!
Silk screening gives us a strong stage 3 color and a blended-grainy look!

And don't worry, your silk screened california holos will not fade in the laminator like the stamped california holos.

What you need to silk screen:
Stencil Pro Hi-Res (buy the 10 pack! do not buy the 4 pack! you will fail making the silk-screens. BUY THE 10 PACK!)
Golden Acrylics Interference Gold
Golden Acrylics Interference Green
-some golden acrylics dark green (maybe), or maybe a light green and some Golden Acrylics Mars Black.
A paint spatula (get them at home depot for cheap!)

Q: Can I use Pearl Ex and transparent base to silkscreen?
A: I do not recommend it. I tried it for a long time and failed. I have no doubt that its possible, but the Golden Acrylics Interference colors are perfect silk screening texture right out of the bottle.

Furthermore, getting the hologram to be the right color is going to destroy your moral, because you will never be able to match it perfectly.
Learning to create the silkscreens so that all the detail of the holo is intact is going to annoy you and cause a great deal of mental anguish; but don't fret, because it is possible!

Then again, if your out of state, who cares about the right detail and color?

And can I inquire what printer you are using to print the teslin on?

Also the hologram template in the guide needs to be modified. After you silk screen the holos and compare to a real ID you'll understand where I am coming from.

[stylezidz]

Originally Posted by sledgehammer

Read this thread in its entirety.
hxxp://www.bombshock.com/forum/money-fake-id-free-living/1214-official-novelty-id-thread-all-novelty-questions.html

California's hologram is a cunt bitch twat who needs to be tamed.

Your first concern should be realizing your fucking up in making the stamp. The stamp kit comes with instructions. If you follow them EXACTLY you cannot create a bad stamp. Most likely you are not scrubbing hard enough with the brush. Apply pressure. You want to apply more pressure than you would think. You have to dig out the crevasses and this requires pressure!

Your second concern should be in analyzing the California hologram. Now some people who make calis say the stamp method works for them, however I suggest silk screening. The stamp method does work, and I have stamped holos from other states that look thick, bright, and detailed. However the california holo is a different animal.

The california holo has three stages.
1.) Reflecting light fully
2.) Kind of reflecting light...Sparkling (faintly)
3.) Not reflecting light

When the california holo reflects light (stage 1) it looks 100% gold, but on closer inspection one realizes its mostly gold, and a bit green.
When the california holo is kind of relfecting light, but sparkeling more (stage 2) Its sparkling gold and green.
When the california holos is reflection no light (stage 3) it is grey/silver with a bit of dark green.

If you suspect their is no green in the holo, simply compare a a 100% int gold holo to the real thing, and then it will be obvious their is green in the holo.

What the three stages indicate, is that the california holo is comprised of interference gold, interference green, a dark green, and a grey/silver color.

Knowing that interference green/gold is either green/gold or greyish/silver one can assume that the interference green and gold account for the interference colors as well as the grey/silver color. All that is left is a solid dark green (which is where the spring/forest green that mkmk pointed out comes in).

So why shouldn't the stamp method work (or work as well) with california. This comes down to two points:
1.) Stage 3 of a real california holo (when the holo is not reflecting light, and subsequently appears grey/silver) is thick with color. Yet when not reflecting, interference powder is not thick grey/silver, but a more faint grey/silver.
2.) The "texture" of the holo is of a part grainy, part blended feel. Yet stamped, dry pearl-ex is only grainy.

So you need everything the stamp method provides, along with a thicker grey/silver stage 3, and a more blended look. Thankfully for us both of these are obtained from silk screening the holos!
Silk screening gives us a strong stage 3 color and a blended-grainy look!

And don't worry, your silk screened california holos will not fade in the laminator like the stamped california holos.

What you need to silk screen:
Stencil Pro Hi-Res (buy the 10 pack! do not buy the 4 pack! you will fail making the silk-screens. BUY THE 10 PACK!)
Golden Acrylics Interference Gold
Golden Acrylics Interference Green
-some golden acrylics dark green (maybe), or maybe a light green and some Golden Acrylics Mars Black.
A paint spatula (get them at home depot for cheap!)

Q: Can I use Pearl Ex and transparent base to silkscreen?
A: I do not recommend it. I tried it for a long time and failed. I have no doubt that its possible, but the Golden Acrylics Interference colors are perfect silk screening texture right out of the bottle.

Furthermore, getting the hologram to be the right color is going to destroy your moral, because you will never be able to match it perfectly.
Learning to create the silkscreens so that all the detail of the holo is intact is going to annoy you and cause a great deal of mental anguish; but don't fret, because it is possible!

Then again, if your out of state, who cares about the right detail and color?

And can I inquire what printer you are using to print the teslin on?

Also the hologram template in the guide needs to be modified. After you silk screen the holos and compare to a real ID you'll understand where I am coming from.

Wow, okay, I will have to try the silkscreen method. Is this stuff I can pick up locally or do I have to order online?

Is the stamp method possible to get to look better for now so I can at least finish this batch of IDs. The stamp looks okay when I stamp the teslin, looks pretty good. But when I put it through the laminator, the holo/pearl ex fades away.

I am using the Canon MP640 to print on Teslin, comes out pretty good. (High resolution paper, best photo quality), using the Epson R260 w/ UV ink to print the UV.

I am reading the bombshock thread now. Thanks for the advice and help, let me know!

[mttddd]

Originally Posted by stylezidz

Another question. Besides the stamp question I asked above.

I can't get PDFCenter to load on my computer, I keep getting an error when I open the install setup file. I am running 32bit windows vista. Do I need to run a virtual machine with winxp?

Also, when i make the 1d barcode for my CA ID, and i just copy the barcode into photoshop. Can I just resize the 1d barcode? to fit in the card? That won't mess up the barcode being read?

I run windows 7, the pdf center from guide5 wouldnt work on it and i had to use a virtual xp machine but the one in guide6 worked for me.
As for the 1d barcode you can resize it some but if its really small and you have to blow it up 200% then you might run into issues

[stylezidz]

Originally Posted by sledgehammer

Read this thread in its entirety.
hxxp://www.bombshock.com/forum/money-fake-id-free-living/1214-official-novelty-id-thread-all-novelty-questions.html

Okay, damn, this is a lot of reading. I'm up to page 22, then decided to jump to page 70 since that was all super old info, and read from page 70 - 90 so far. I am going to read the rest when I wake up (tired now haha)

I am super confused with the stamp method.

The tutorials in Version 5 & 6 simply say this: Make a stamp, dab pearl-ex (no base) and stamp the teslin. Run the teslin through the laminator with your standard 7 mill gloss. When I do this, the holo fades away and the lamination kind of messes the holo up.

Reading through bombshock so far, I keep reading on this thermal/heat transfer method w/ pearl-ex which is slightly confusing. How does this work? Is this the same method as the stamp/pearl ex method? The version 6 2010 guide mentions nothing of this, nor does the CA 2010 updated guide. It just says stamp the teslin, and that is obviously not working to great for me

Any suggestions to get the stamp method to work in the mean time till I can get a hold of that stencil materials?

Thanks

[stylezidz]

Sorry mkmk...

I really thought I read the whole thing, there is like 2 tutorials folders 1 and 2, then I go into the CALI 2010 folder, and try to put his steps together, and I try to do the best I can with everyones tutorials/stamp/holo directions... Kind of confusing I guess. I am just a bit slower too I guess.

Going to reread it now. I was confused on the heat party because it kept saying PVC, and I don't have PVC cards, and reading the Teslin part kept referring to PVC... Going to reread it.

[Jones]

If I were to order a pouch laminator, like the gbc h115, could I still use perf's laminates? he has sheets and cutouts, would there be any problem using cc sized cutouts or do i NEED actual pouches?

If i must use pouches I'd just go for a bigger laminator

[stylezidz]

Haha, I am an idiot, I skipped the PVC part, and when you get to Teslin part on how to do the thermal method, it says "do the same steps as above" but I totally thought it meant the Teslin step above, haha. <-- idiot

I guess my only question would be is how thick of transparency sheets should I get from office depot?

Do you prefer the first method or this method (thermal transfer) for doing CA holograms?

Thanks for the help, and helping a noobie it's roughly my 3-4th day dicking with these alllll day

[sledgehammer]

Originally Posted by stylezidz

Okay, damn, this is a lot of reading. I'm up to page 22, then decided to jump to page 70 since that was all super old info, and read from page 70 - 90 so far. I am going to read the rest when I wake up (tired now haha)

I am super confused with the stamp method.

The tutorials in Version 5 & 6 simply say this: Make a stamp, dab pearl-ex (no base) and stamp the teslin. Run the teslin through the laminator with your standard 7 mill gloss. When I do this, the holo fades away and the lamination kind of messes the holo up.

Reading through bombshock so far, I keep reading on this thermal/heat transfer method w/ pearl-ex which is slightly confusing. How does this work? Is this the same method as the stamp/pearl ex method? The version 6 2010 guide mentions nothing of this, nor does the CA 2010 updated guide. It just says stamp the teslin, and that is obviously not working to great for me

Any suggestions to get the stamp method to work in the mean time till I can get a hold of that stencil materials?

Thanks

When I stamped California holos the same "disappearing act" happened. I suspect its because the California holo is made from thin lines, so theirs no "bulk" or "body" to the stamp, making it hard to see/vanish. The holos disappeared from both the teslin and laminate for the California holo.
I was able to help the situation my spraying some spray adhesive on the teslin before stamping. However during lamination bubbles sometimes appeared as a result of the glue. You might consider trying this out.

I've personally never tried the thermal transfer method, although I did read of users having success with this technique for the California holo.

StencilPro can be bought at this site cbridge.com. The process is "Silk Screening" and you can find a great deal of information on this art online and on youtube. I suggest you purchase hxxp://www.store.cbridge.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TCBPS&Product_ Code=STP-HIR-002-10&Category_Code=SPO-HIR.
You can also buy the kits. However if you have the stamp kit, you can use that plastic rectangular plate, along with a few office clamps to develop your screen. Check out youtube and watch people developing "PhotoEZ" and "StencilPro", and learn from them.

Also, just know that making IDs is like an art. It takes a while to master. No matter how much you read, you won't fully understand what you are reading. You need to learn and see stuff for yourself from your own experiments. The Ultimate Guide is NOT a step-by-step instruction booklet. While the details and procedures are extremely well outlined, it takes a little ingenuity and creativity to produce good final product.
It seems you jumped into this without knowing that much about it. Your probably 16, or around that age, and filled with excitement, which is blinding your judgment. I suggest you slow it down otherwise your gunna make a mistake that will cost you later. For example; if you go bragging to your friends about your new skill......now they are going to snitch you out later. And if you think they won't then;
A.) your friends are hardened thugs or
B.) you've never been "questioned" or interrogated by the police (and thus don't understand that they are professional interrogators)
The first thing you should do before you start making these is look up the laws in your area/state and learn about your rights. In fact I saw a good thread on this site about "Why you should never talk to the police".

[antkid]

Originally Posted by Skybar

7 mil laminated and sanded down with a nail file = Perfect. 100% replicated feel

i like how it comes out, but i feel its not transparent enough at the top on the smaller print for the Newyorkstate words in the fade... also, using cs4 i cant get vertus mask to work correctly as a plugin from photoshop... tried almost everything.. anyone else having this problem?

[researchkitty]

That's wonderful, but we still dont know or trust you lockheed, and have no reason to register at some random site some random new guy made. A+ for effort, but save your money. Your acting like the new DEA guy who nobody ever met before with a ton of drugs for sale, so why doesnt everyone just come on down to him and buy buy! No.

[Dustjuice]

Originally Posted by mkmk

Whomever is a member here and on bombshock, someone should post a new thread on the fake id section of bombshock posting the new forum url ultimatefakes.com so we can get many of the old members back onto the new forum.

can i use my old user name from RF to sign in?

[stylezidz]

Okay I got the stamp and pearl ex working good when I stamp the teslin. And it looks really good on Teslin, really good. BUT.... When I put the 7mil gloss laminate on front, and the 7mill gloss hico laminate on the back and run it through the laminator. The Holo gets eaten up pretty bad. Any suggestions?

I am using the GBC HeatSeal H115 laminator and sticking the 7 mill laminate pouch w/ the teslin in the pouch without the carrier, because I tried the index card carrier and it doesn't work/stick together. And the device itself says not to use a carrier right in the front in a big warning message.

I've tried cold lamination on the GBC HeatSeal 110, but that laminator seems to suck even more than the H115. Using an index card carrier doesn't work in either laminator.

Any help is really appreciated, thanks a bunch for dealing with a novice

PS. I am doing the 2010 updated CA template, and it prints perfect on inkjet teslin, I have the 7mil glossy laminate from brainstormidsupply, and 7mill hico gloss laminate backing from brainstormidsupply as well. 10mill teslin from Perfs, 70% int. gold pearlex mixed w/ 30% int. green from Perfs. I rub the pearlex thin on paper, stamp the teslin, and a beautiful HOLO shows up. But after running through my laminator, poof the holo is totally faded away and crappy looking ;(

[sledgehammer]

Originally Posted by stylezidz

Okay I got the stamp and pearl ex working good when I stamp the teslin. And it looks really good on Teslin, really good. BUT.... When I put the 7mil gloss laminate on front, and the 7mill gloss hico laminate on the back and run it through the laminator. The Holo gets eaten up pretty bad. Any suggestions?

I am using the GBC HeatSeal H115 laminator and sticking the 7 mill laminate pouch w/ the teslin in the pouch without the carrier, because I tried the index card carrier and it doesn't work/stick together. And the device itself says not to use a carrier right in the front in a big warning message.

I've tried cold lamination on the GBC HeatSeal 110, but that laminator seems to suck even more than the H115. Using an index card carrier doesn't work in either laminator.

Any help is really appreciated, thanks a bunch for dealing with a novice

PS. I am doing the 2010 updated CA template, and it prints perfect on inkjet teslin, I have the 7mil glossy laminate from brainstormidsupply, and 7mill hico gloss laminate backing from brainstormidsupply as well. 10mill teslin from Perfs, 70% int. gold pearlex mixed w/ 30% int. green from Perfs. I rub the pearlex thin on paper, stamp the teslin, and a beautiful HOLO shows up. But after running through my laminator, poof the holo is totally faded away and crappy looking ;(

Why don't you read! Do you need a special PM? You need to calm down, and sort your mind.

Let me copy and paste what I wrote in response to this same dilema only a page ago.

When I stamped California holos the same "disappearing act" happened. I suspect its because the California holo is made from thin lines, so theirs no "bulk" or "body" to the stamp, making it hard to see/vanish. The holos disappeared from both the teslin and laminate for the California holo.
I was able to help the situation my spraying some spray adhesive on the teslin before stamping. However during lamination bubbles sometimes appeared as a result of the glue. You might consider trying this out.

I've personally never tried the thermal transfer method, although I did read of users having success with this technique for the California holo.

StencilPro can be bought at this site cbridge.com. The process is "Silk Screening" and you can find a great deal of information on this art online and on youtube. I suggest you purchase hxxp://www.store.cbridge.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TCBPS&Product_ Code=STP-HIR-002-10&Category_Code=SPO-HIR.
You can also buy the kits. However if you have the stamp kit, you can use that plastic rectangular plate, along with a few office clamps to develop your screen. Check out youtube and watch people developing "PhotoEZ" and "StencilPro", and learn from them.

Also, just know that making IDs is like an art. It takes a while to master. No matter how much you read, you won't fully understand what you are reading. You need to learn and see stuff for yourself from your own experiments. The Ultimate Guide is NOT a step-by-step instruction booklet. While the details and procedures are extremely well outlined, it takes a little ingenuity and creativity to produce good final product.
It seems you jumped into this without knowing that much about it. Your probably 16, or around that age, and filled with excitement, which is blinding your judgment. I suggest you slow it down otherwise your gunna make a mistake that will cost you later. For example; if you go bragging to your friends about your new skill......now they are going to snitch you out later. And if you think they won't then;
A.) your friends are hardened thugs or
B.) you've never been "questioned" or interrogated by the police (and thus don't understand that they are professional interrogators)
The first thing you should do before you start making these is look up the laws in your area/state and learn about your rights. In fact I saw a good thread on this site about "Why you should never talk to the police".
Reply With Quote

[stylezidz]

Originally Posted by sledgehammer

Why don't you read! Do you need a special PM? You need to calm down, and sort your mind.

Let me copy and paste what I wrote in response to this same dilema only a page ago.

When I stamped California holos the same "disappearing act" happened. I suspect its because the California holo is made from thin lines, so theirs no "bulk" or "body" to the stamp, making it hard to see/vanish. The holos disappeared from both the teslin and laminate for the California holo.
I was able to help the situation my spraying some spray adhesive on the teslin before stamping. However during lamination bubbles sometimes appeared as a result of the glue. You might consider trying this out.

I've personally never tried the thermal transfer method, although I did read of users having success with this technique for the California holo.

StencilPro can be bought at this site cbridge.com. The process is "Silk Screening" and you can find a great deal of information on this art online and on youtube. I suggest you purchase hxxp://www.store.cbridge.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TCBPS&Product_ Code=STP-HIR-002-10&Category_Code=SPO-HIR.
You can also buy the kits. However if you have the stamp kit, you can use that plastic rectangular plate, along with a few office clamps to develop your screen. Check out youtube and watch people developing "PhotoEZ" and "StencilPro", and learn from them.

Also, just know that making IDs is like an art. It takes a while to master. No matter how much you read, you won't fully understand what you are reading. You need to learn and see stuff for yourself from your own experiments. The Ultimate Guide is NOT a step-by-step instruction booklet. While the details and procedures are extremely well outlined, it takes a little ingenuity and creativity to produce good final product.
It seems you jumped into this without knowing that much about it. Your probably 16, or around that age, and filled with excitement, which is blinding your judgment. I suggest you slow it down otherwise your gunna make a mistake that will cost you later. For example; if you go bragging to your friends about your new skill......now they are going to snitch you out later. And if you think they won't then;
A.) your friends are hardened thugs or
B.) you've never been "questioned" or interrogated by the police (and thus don't understand that they are professional interrogators)
The first thing you should do before you start making these is look up the laws in your area/state and learn about your rights. In fact I saw a good thread on this site about "Why you should never talk to the police".
Reply With Quote

Thank you, I did read your post thoroughly. I ordered the Stencil stuff, it's just I have to figure out the stamp method asap, because I owe a lot of IDs I keep reading and reading the ultimate guide, and he just keeps saying the stamp method works perfect w/ pearlex. I also did purchase a spray adhesive from the art store, and it seemed like it helped a little, but then just kept fading away. 1 ID out of about 15 has worked so far with the holo not fading away.

I read the entire bombshock thread, the ultimate guide, and just keep seeing how mkmk says the "stamp method" w/ pearl ex works perfect "no matter what." He even called a few people stupid for doubting him, so I have been up day and night trying to get this stamp method to work for me.

Since I am waiting on the stencil stuff, not much I can do except experiment with the stamp method. Is there a certain type of spray on adhesive you recommend? Would a transparent base help at this point?

Thanks for your advice!

[stylezidz]

Update on PearlEx Stamp:

I got it a little bit better. The laminator was to hot I think, I don't have temp controls, so I think it was from being on for too long. If I turn it on, and let it warm up, then laminate it right away, it comes out a little better.

The lamination process is still making the pearlex hologram a little smudgy still. It's not really fading as bad anymore, but now it's smudging and becoming a little blurry... Any ideas?

I have been using your spray adhesive method, and it helps a little.

[bman4511]

i'm having trouble getting my ids to come out looking crisp. they looked faded. ive come to the conclusion that its because theyre printing out in 300 dpi instead of 1200. on most of the templates on version 6, there is an attention box on the template that says there was a dpi reduction and to lock everything and move it to a new box and it will work. will someone elaborate on that because i dont exactly understand what to do with it.

[bman4511]

have you ever had a problem with your printer that your ids come out and look faded?

[researchkitty]

Only if I print them on the wrong settings, bman4511.

[bman4511]

hey mkmk, i have access to the georgia multispec holos, but do not have an updated georgia template. what steps would i have to take for you to make the template? thanks.

[bman4511]

fair enough, is version 7 something that is coming out in the forseeable future?

[researchkitty]

V6 is only a few weeks old........ V7 by end of summer is my guess?

[antkid]

whoever makes novelty for NYS.. i live within NY and ive had numerous bouncers tell me that my orange/brownish seal color is too off.. also, ive been changing a few things to the fonts and positioning because its off by a little too, which people comment on a lot.. ive seen 3-400 NYS ids and i see things in common and things that need to be changed.. anyone else mess with the color of the seal on NYS temp?

[MoneyMadness]

Now I know many of you are already good counterfeits but I have come across someone selling dmv issued state temps, 33 states for 25k. If there are any people here interested in upping their game to selling online or increasing their customer base, etc believe me this will save you some time. In my personal experience it is better to just stick with 1 or 2 as I know I dont plan on visiting every state lol as the reason why I am not interested in the offer but I dont mind a fee for the connect

I may even be able to partner with you for statup funds.

Nevertheless, this includes the supplies and SUPPLIERS for the actual cards as well as specific settings for the p640i printer.
He sells 100 blank cards at a certain price for each state. Just ask for specifics.

[researchkitty]

Originally Posted by MoneyMadness

Now I know many of you are already good counterfeits but I have come across someone selling dmv issued state temps, 33 states for 25k. If there are any people here interested in upping their game to selling online or increasing their customer base, etc believe me this will save you some time. In my personal experience it is better to just stick with 1 or 2 as I know I dont plan on visiting every state lol as the reason why I am not interested in the offer but I dont mind a fee for the connect

I may even be able to partner with you for statup funds.

Nevertheless, this includes the supplies and SUPPLIERS for the actual cards as well as specific settings for the p640i printer.
He sells 100 blank cards at a certain price for each state. Just ask for specifics.

This post violates the forum rules in more ways than I can count.

1.) Your guy who has 33 state templates for sale for $25,000 is reselling the fake id guide that mkmk and many others collaborated on and is posted in this thread (that's what this thread is ABOUT!) and is distributed for free.

2.) You would partner with some random idiot on Zoklet for $12,500? You need my western union name immediately. I cant wait to take your $12,500 that you dont have and run with it! Actually, I should sell you my copy of V6 for $10k, then you can make an extra $2500! Sigh.....

3.) Suppliers online sell blanks for every state already. Its just either PVC or teslin. Pick whichever you like and buy em for $1.00 each novelty.

4.) Your "suppler" who wants $25,000 for all this magical goodness has no means to replicate any holograms or UV. Just templates and blank cards. Lot of good that does someone!

6.) These arent "counterfeits" -- they are novelty id's. If you dont even know the terminology for the market your trying to scam, you wont scam it well. Especially people here who have been reading the novelty id forums for the last few years and print dozens in a day.

5.) Just fuck off and go troll elsewhere. Fucking worse post of the entire year on Zoklet is this one made by you (and probably a few by me, but thats no worries, I'm not about to try and scam anyone, as you clearly are). I wouldnt be surprised to see your post deleted by a moderator as it clearly should.

[MoneyMadness]

It is not the guide lol and it is not a scam.

I am glad you know about many other suppliers that work at the dmv and have taken the time to share it with other people for free.

I highly doubt I can lowball him but it seems that there is no market here(zoklet) for his business. I appreciate your honesty, but a simple no thanks, or no I am fine with making them by myself would do plenty.

About myself, I indeed sell dls for 50ea w/holo, uv, barcode, and magstrip. They are not dmv issued but will pass just fine. This deal is for people who are just starting out on their feet and want to go pro right off the back, and since he is tossing in his printer I dont really see how it is a bad deal.

Nevertheless I am sure this offer wont last more than a week, so let me know if you are interested as this is not the only place this offer is being advertised. "The reason he is closing shop is because he is going overseas working with an independent contractor."

I guess you could compare it to something like if idchief.com was closing down, what is he going to do with his stuff? Throw it all away?

[-SpectraL]

Think we could get back onto the topic of the discussion of novelty IDs now that we've got all our commercial selling concerns out of the way? Please and thank you.

[kgks]

What's the word on multispec? Looks like a multispec hologram that displays different images based on the way you tilt it (left-to-right or up-and-down) can't be done?

[researchkitty]

Its impossible to re-create a multispec hologram at home with standard equipment. Either you have to find a source to make you the holograms on an overlaminate card, or you can much easier print another state instead.

[kgks]

Of course, but certainly you must see the need to be able to produce for a certain area. Besides, it's only a matter of time before multispec is the norm and the only few states that don't use it become "suspect" anywhere else. This is a real problem in this..."community"

[Bambo222]

Quick question: If I recently have made a bunch of purchases off ebay including printers, ink, PVC cards, UV ink, and overlaminates, would that bring up any red flags? All of the items I am purchasing are legal in a legal manner, but I don't want anyone to think I'm doing something illegal. I just need high quality laboratory access cards.

[-SpectraL]

Originally Posted by Bambo222

Quick question: If I recently have made a bunch of purchases off ebay including printers, ink, PVC cards, UV ink, and overlaminates, would that bring up any red flags? All of the items I am purchasing are legal in a legal manner, but I don't want anyone to think I'm doing something illegal. I just need high quality laboratory access cards.

I'm positive the feds have collection-scripts running on the E-Bay system, just the same as all the others. Probably high-grade bots with fantastic AI, too... all reporting home to Mother. If I was you, I'd buy those items on different dates from now on.. at least a week apart. If you buy all the items at the same time, it may trigger something on the fed's spy-systems... whether they bother investigating these things.. you just never know until they're breaking in your door at 1am and start hauling all your shit out to unmarked black vans parked out front.

[budda]

hey all I got some questions..

First off, is there a way to encode a PDF417 barcode so that it contains both byte and text data? for example, the barcode that I need has to have "@?" as byte info followed by the text info. Can PDFcenter do this?

Did anyone ever order holograms from the source listed in ID guide v6?

[researchkitty]

Just like every other scammer on any message board, just like the RF place, just like Cheeze and his "unknown associates" stealing money in group buys, oh the list goes on and on..........