How does this come out? (Gunsmithing question)

[ACE_187]

There is this handgun, I'm sure there are probably a lot of them that are like this.

I would like to remove the extractor, but it seems to be held in place by a pin. There is a hole that goes from the top to bottom of the slide, and the pin goes in there and seems to hold the extractor in. I've tapped the pin with small metal things trying to get it out and I can't. I know there are gunsmith "punches" but I don't see what would be different on them than the things I've already used trying to get it out. Or are they special? They look like metal rods.

[Spence_tron]

Get yourself a "pin punch" of the correct size, and try gently tapping the pin out with a hammer. If this does not work (I dont like using a hammer much anyways to avoid damaging parts/finishes) then put your pin punch in a drill press (do NOT turn it on), align your part below the punch, and then lower the drill press using steady pressure to pop that pin out.

You could probably utilize a simple bench vise and a punch but I have used the drill press method to pop out dozens of pins on my guns/knives no problem.

[5.56 SS109]

Maybe a roll pin punch would do it?

[944]

You're probably using something that's just a hair too big and doesn't fit through the hole, or is too soft and is flexing.

[DiStOrTiOn]

gunsmith punches are made of brass so they deform and not remove material from the gun


The pin is probably bent from use, just tap harder

[Vargus]

Originally Posted by DiStOrTiOn

gunsmith punches are made of brass so they deform and not remove material from the gun


The pin is probably bent from use, just tap harder

It's really more for not gouging the metal. The brass is still fairly hard, and gets harder with every strike. Muck up and you can easily take off bluing.

[1983]

Find a blueprint or a manual for your firearm online and start from there.

Bras punches are the way to go as well with a smaller hammer. If all else fails look into an arbour press to avoid fucking up your drill press.

Seriously though find a manual. I could even look it up in my data base at home this weekend if you'd like.

Al

[reggie_love]

Pics, make, model, more pics!

Show us what you're talking about.

[Vargus]

Originally Posted by 1983

Find a blueprint or a manual for your firearm online and start from there.

Bras punches are the way to go as well with a smaller hammer. If all else fails look into an arbour press to avoid fucking up your drill press.

Seriously though find a manual. I could even look it up in my data base at home this weekend if you'd like.

Al

No worries on fucking up the drill press. It's really just an arbor press with a rotating spindle inside. Don't get too crazy and you won't mess up the gears or the rack on the spindle housing.

[RadicalApex]

Get a brass drive pin set and a rubber hammer. It shouldn't cost you more than $40.

[Vargus]

Originally Posted by RadicalApex

Get a brass drive pin set and a rubber hammer. It shouldn't cost you more than $40.

Don't use the rubber hammer on any pins, though. Also, a double-ended rubber and plastic hammer is a better investment.

That plastic hammer came in really handy when I was getting the front sight and gas block off my PSL for barrel threading. I turned the threads as 5/8-24-3A, so I could use common .30 threaded stuff. A friend had the tap so I rethreaded an AK74-style .30 brake that had the 14x1 lefty threads. I didn't bother to index everything since I planed on putting a spring loaded pin in the front sight but magically everything worked out to where it's already indexed right. The bayonet scabbard comes in really handy as a brake wrench.

[1983]

Originally Posted by Vargus

No worries on fucking up the drill press. It's really just an arbor press with a rotating spindle inside. Don't get too crazy and you won't mess up the gears or the rack on the spindle housing.

Yeah I know... Fighting with an old double barrel for eight hours trying to use a drill press to push the hammers back into place so you can seat them and the pins into place = me buying an arbour press and nearly throwing my bosses gun into the pond.

Thing had about a hundred years of mud caked into that fucker so I stripped all the internals and polished them up on a fine brass wire wheel after I cleaned them off and gave it a final coat of oil and she's almost brand new all these years later.

I will admit though... The springs for the hammers where crisp but with very high tension behind them.

Al

[Vargus]

Originally Posted by 1983

I will admit though... The springs for the hammers where crisp but with very high tension behind them.

Al

Same story with a friend's 16 gauge Stevens double barrel. I'd say it would be a safety feature, considering the ease of lighting both triggers or accidentally throwing off the safety. I'd save a good trigger or even a set trigger for a proper over-under skeeter gun.