Archived: Counterfeiting Money

[Ezah]

This person has the scans in photoshop, he used threshold to get everything that is black into a stencil like formation. he dyed the paper with liquid ivory dye diluted with water.

he then prints the stencil like image in all black over the top of the dyed paper

after that he prints the green seal and 20 over the top with an opacity of about 20%. then using a green multicolored gel pen he colors over the seal n 20.

The only problem is the paper, its too stiff and wont pass as a believable 2001 $20 note. It looks perfect-ish just feels too wrong. I dont want to use 25% cotton because that will obviously fail the pen test without hairspray.

[11cent]

Originally Posted by Ezah

This person has the scans in photoshop, he used threshold to get everything that is black into a stencil like formation. he dyed the paper with liquid ivory dye diluted with water.

he then prints the stencil like image in all black over the top of the dyed paper

after that he prints the green seal and 20 over the top with an opacity of about 20%. then using a green multicolored gel pen he colors over the seal n 20.

The only problem is the paper, its too stiff and wont pass as a believable 2001 $20 note. It looks perfect-ish just feels too wrong. I dont want to use 25% cotton because that will obviously fail the pen test without hairspray.

Well used a different type of paper then.

[SBTlauien]

Originally Posted by Ezah

after that he prints the green seal and 20 over the top with an opacity of about 20%. then using a green multicolored gel pen he colors over the seal n 20.

On my $100 bills, the black ink appears to be over the green ink.

Newsprint.

[asdf123]

Does any one here know how to adjust the color of the bill to make it look like a real one. I know that the color of the paper is cream, but i can't seem to produce the same color. I found the perfect paper that is thin enough and won't bleed though. For informational purpose only.

[Alexmon]

Originally Posted by asdf123

Does any one here know how to adjust the color of the bill to make it look like a real one. I know that the color of the paper is cream, but i can't seem to produce the same color. I found the perfect paper that is thin enough and won't bleed though. For informational purpose only.

You talking about 50 euros ?

[asdf123]

Alexmon. What do you mean 50 euros? What made you come up with that?

[asdf123]

Never mind i got it.

[asdf123]

I have read online that in order to make "artwork" feel real, just throw it into drying machine with a few pieces of plastic and wet clothes for a total of 8 hours, not just for a few minutes. Make sure you do it long enough so that your artwork have a total of 8 hours inside the dryer. For information purpose only.

[asdf123]

FYI, Albert Talton didn't use newsprint to make counterfeit notes. He used something else. What is the point for applying hairspray on the paper that's already immune to the pen? They were lying about the paper all along guys.

[Alexmon]

asdf123 , you are a fucking ejit

[SBTlauien]

Originally Posted by asdf123

FYI, Albert Talton didn't use newsprint to make counterfeit notes. He used something else.

Source? I have read in multiple places, that he used newsprint.

[re1gnsupreme]

Anyone know if an HP Photosmart Plus b209a-m will suffice?

[asdf123]

Guys i have a quick question. What are some requirements for police to arrest you for counterfeiting money? What if others tell police that you are counterfeiting money but police can't find any evidence?

[spyd]

Originally Posted by asdf123

Does any one here know how to adjust the color of the bill to make it look like a real one. I know that the color of the paper is cream, but i can't seem to produce the same color. I found the perfect paper that is thin enough and won't bleed though. For informational purpose only.

That's my question also. A 50 euro bill paper color is cream, a 10 pink/red, 20 blue and 100 is green. How can you counterfeit this paper colors? I'm just curious...

[horker]

Hello accompanying of forum, it but to know the good-quality printers is difficult, for example to make bills of euros

Printer to manufacture euros of quality?I reading a lot on the set, from above to bass, but no finding printer of quality to do an art of a bill of euros.

Some companion of the forum knows a printer of quality for euros.

Very interesting the forum

[horker]

Hello accompanying of forum, it but to know the good-quality printers is difficult, for example to make bills of euros

Printer to manufacture euros of quality?I reading a lot on the set, from above to bass, but no finding printer of quality to do an art of a bill of euros.

Some companion of the forum knows a printer of quality for euros.

Very interesting the forum

[horker]

Hello accompanying of forum, it but to know the good-quality printers is difficult, for example to make bills of euros

Printer to manufacture euros of quality?I reading a lot on the set, from above to bass, but no finding printer of quality to do an art of a bill of euros.

Some companion of the forum knows a printer of quality for euros.

Very interesting the forum

[re1gnsupreme]

Also, what is the cheapest paper that is still pretty good?

[re1gnsupreme]

OK, what paper would be the best and cheapest for an inkjet printer and how would one go about making it feel like the real deal?

[spyd]

Originally Posted by horker

Hello accompanying of forum, it but to know the good-quality printers is difficult, for example to make bills of euros

Printer to manufacture euros of quality?I reading a lot on the set, from above to bass, but no finding printer of quality to do an art of a bill of euros.

Some companion of the forum knows a printer of quality for euros.

Very interesting the forum

I can buy a HP Indigo 1050 6 color digital press, is this good equipment to print euro bills? I also need good images to print. Does anyone have a euro bill in .eps (vector) format with different layers in it? If you don't have this but only know someone who can provide this (for money) I also like to know this!

[horker]

Hello accompanying of forum, it but to know the good-quality printers is difficult, for example to make bills of euros

Printer to manufacture euros of quality?I reading a lot on the set, from above to bass, but no finding printer of quality to do an art of a bill of euros.

Some companion of the forum knows a printer of quality for euros.

Very interesting the forum

[Alexmon]

None of you have hope at this art if you are all begging for help or trying to find the cheap n' easy way.
You can't be spoon fed. Learn yourself and don't be begging for help, if you have something to add to the forum go ahead.
You need to invest big to get big, FACT. If there was a cheap way of doing it everyone would be doing this!
Spend some time at it, think of new ideas and then you will see results.

[HDW]

instead of inkjet, use dye-sublimation printer.

with cotton paper 20g , 25% cotton (southwest)


check this link:
http://prizedwriting.ucdavis.edu/pas...to-counterfeit

[re1gnsupreme]

I just want to know what the best paper is. 25% cotton? 75% cotton? I'd be hypothetically doing this the quick and easy way because I won't need to pass the pen test or anything. I would hypothetically just need to make something that looks and feels like money, nothing more.

[SBTlauien]

Originally Posted by Alexmon

None of you have hope at this art if you are all begging for help or trying to find the cheap n' easy way.
You can't be spoon fed. Learn yourself and don't be begging for help, if you have something to add to the forum go ahead.
You need to invest big to get big, FACT. If there was a cheap way of doing it everyone would be doing this!
Spend some time at it, think of new ideas and then you will see results.

Can't I just put $100s in my scanner and print them out to resume paper?

[Alexmon]

No you can't SBTlauien because I am guessing you want to make a profit with little suspicions from the Po-Po.

[SBTlauien]

Originally Posted by Alexmon

No you can't SBTlauien because I am guessing you want to make a profit with little suspicions from the Po-Po.

I doubt cashiers would turn the bill over and notice I didn't print a backside.

[forger]

just made a comeback
for EUROS i got the complete method and guide
most of the people here only talk thats the problem

euros is the easiest to make after trials and errors
i would only give the guide to some serious guys here

damn hydraulic press only costs under £100 lool dirt cheap

[victorv]

Not that I condone counterfeiting or would ever even conceive the idea of attempting to, but I think a lot of you guys have the priorities here messed up. (this is relating to USD but I guess it could apply to other currencies?)

Anyway, as we all know from this lovely thread American currency is printed on a mix of cotton and linen paper. The paper's actually made by Crane & Co. and has been for over 200 years. They make the paper, emboss a watermark using a dandy roller, put in the security strip, and ship it off to the Dept. of Printing & Engraving for it to be printed.

The green on the back and the black on the front is printed using a process called intaglio (basically another name for gravure). A plate is photo-engraved with an image. The plate is then covered with ink and then wiped, that way ink only remains in the engraved portion. Paper is then forced under tons of pressure into the grooves and ridges which creates the fine lines and slightly raised texture.

The green seal and serial numbers are imprinted with an offset press.(An offset press is a press with a [usually] photopolymer plate that is wrong reading, which offsets [turns right reading. hence the term offset printing] to a rubber coated cylinder called a blanket, and then is printed onto the substrate.) I also hear that the supplementary color(s) on the new series bills are printed on an offset press, too.

I'm gonna' focus the rest of this lil' informational piece on the 1996-current (soon to be replaced) series of 100 bills, mostly because I feel the time frame for these 100's is closing as the fed reprints the new series and releases them, and because whether it's a phony 20 or a phony 100, it's still illegal and you might as well try to make the most profit possible.

First off, you need at least a decent budget. I'm not saying you'll need 50,000 worth of prepress, press, and finishing equipment, but you'll need at least $2500 - $5000 if you want to make a quality fake that has a chance of passing and you don't want to live with poverty-level profit for a class C/D felony. Especially now that a lot of businesses have moved on from the pen and have electronic bill testers (that test, usually, for magnetic ink, the security strip, and UV ink on the security strip, and usually have a built in magnifier for viewing microprinting).

A CAD/GIS/Architectural printer such as Epson's Stylus Pro 7700 is perfect for this. It's made to print extremely small, hairline-weight lines and layout work with very, very small deviation. Perfect for 'our' needs. Also, you can easily find a CIS System (external ink system you can fill with your own ink) for this printer, which allows us to fill the black ink tanks with MICR ink. (MICR ink is magnetic ink usually used in checks and barcodes to help machines read them.) This MICR ink will help you fool the bill checking machines that search for magnetic ink, which will help your bill from obtaining any further scrutiny. You should be able to pick this printer up for around $2,500-$3,000 new, or around $2,000 used if you can. It used 5 colors - Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black, and Photo Black. But for our purposes both black carts will be filled with the same MICR ink.

Next, you need a decent paper. This will take some research on you, but look up cotton based woodfree lightweight offset, or cotton bible paper. If you can order these in 24 inch rolls for your fancy new Epson, then great! There's a lot of suppliers on the internet and you just need to look around. This paper is the paper usually used in bibles, dictionaries, and phone books since it's thin, but cotton based so it's stronger than wood based paper. This helps keep the size down without compromising quality. This also means it'll pass the pen test that some businesses still use.

Before you start printing, you need two more things: the OVI (color changing) ink on the bottom right of the obverse of the bill, and the invisible red UV ink on the security strip. Look up "chameleon" color changing auto paint. There's a few companies that offer green to dark blue formulas or something similar. These companies all get the pigments from the same company that supplies the pigments to the government, they're just not allowed to sell the green to black pigment. (Blue gives people the sheen they expect, anyway. No biggy.) I'm sure you can find UV Red ink on the internet, it's everywhere.

In my opinion, getting a very fine mesh count silkscreening screen and finding a way to get access to a small screen burner would be ideal. You basically need to create two stencils. One for your color shifting ink on the front, in the shape of the 100. And one for the thin bar going down the security strip. But any way you can figure out to mask off these areas is good, as long as it has enough detail.

When it comes to printing, you're going to print the front on one sheet and the back on another. The security thread and watermark are printing on the opposite side of the BACK sheet (let that dry and then screen your UV Red ink over the security thread), and then using spray adhesive you marry the two sheets together. Make sure they dry under pressure, and make sure you have plenty of "extra" room in all four directions. (No bill images right next to the edge.)

Hopefully you have crop marks or registration marks on all the bills, because now it's time to screen your OVI ink on, and having crop marks on both the bills and on the screen for the 100 will allow you to align them far easier. Once this dries you'll need to coat the bills with a matte or satin spray which will help seal everything and protect against rubbing, and then you can trim the bills and weather them up a bit.

Also, something you might want to look into is using another screen to mask off areas and putting a slightly textured silk screening medium (which is clear) over the printed areas, which might help create a raised texture.

Oh, and the security fibers can be "drawn in" with a light hand using red and blue artist-grade colored pencils before you seal your bill. That is if your printer couldn't print the lines.

BTW, a very High-Res version of the 100 bill is on wikipedia if you look up "Federal Reserve Note". DON'T downrez.

Basically, you need to experiment for yourself to see what works best in your situation, but if I were you I'd avoid making crappy 20's and pawing them off to a gas station. Focus on something that can pass at an established business. Buy something big like a $9,000 rolex from a jewelery store or from a craigslist ad, wait until a lil while, and then sell that to another store or a pawn shop using a fake ID in a location far from where you live. If you focus on quality and big jobs, along with security for yourself and being careful of leaving a trail, then you'll probably make it a lot longer than the high school kid printing $20's from his mom's home office.

Again, I don't condone counterfeiting in any sort, but hopefully this gets someone in the right direction. And I know leave your morals at the door, but I'm all for screwing over big companies and rich people rather than hurting the local cafe or convenience store with your fakes. More money for you, less for the big, corrupt, evil ones in this world.

Sorry for the long post, and I know a lot of the stuff I said has been repeated. I've read this thread from the first page to the last as a lurker, and I'm finding a lack of seriousness in recent pages, especially for such a serious topic!

Stay safe!

[freedom]

Originally Posted by forger

just made a comeback
for EUROS i got the complete method and guide
most of the people here only talk thats the problem

euros is the easiest to make after trials and errors
i would only give the guide to some serious guys here

damn hydraulic press only costs under £100 lool dirt cheap

reminds me the "grow your penis by 4 inches in 2 weeks" method.

[zippo]

Originally Posted by freedom

reminds me the "grow your penis by 4 inches in 2 weeks" method.

[re1gnsupreme]

How would one get around the hp anti-counterfiet? Hypothetically, I might have been able to print 100s WITHOUT A PROBLEM, but when printing 20s my printer would hypothetically be printing half the bill plus www.rulesforuse.org. It would make no sense...

Also, would that be the Photoshop anti-counterfiet or hp?

[victorv]

On the newer money there are invisible markers, such as the pattern the 0s of the little gold 20s on the back, the "freedom symbols", or the arrangement of the pattern that the 2nd colors make.

Older versions of photoshop (pre-CS) don't have the algorithm that detects for these 'invisible' markers. Older printers don't either, but you'd be hard pressed to find an older, high quality printer that still has these supplies made for it. Some 'professional' level printers may print them, but you still have the photoshop problem.

You could try photoshopping out the 20s or arranging them in a different pattern. If that doesn't work you should try cropping parts of the bill until it will print, that way you can zero-in on the "problem area" which would allow you to figure out what you have to fix.

This is one of the reasons that you should probably stick to the 94-current series 100 bill. It's far less common, which means people, on average, have less experience handling them. It's easier to forge. It's more reward for the same risk. That, and the $US 20 bill is the most commonly counterfeited bill in the states.

[re1gnsupreme]

Originally Posted by victorv

On the newer money there are invisible markers, such as the pattern the 0s of the little gold 20s on the back, the "freedom symbols", or the arrangement of the pattern that the 2nd colors make.

Older versions of photoshop (pre-CS) don't have the algorithm that detects for these 'invisible' markers. Older printers don't either, but you'd be hard pressed to find an older, high quality printer that still has these supplies made for it. Some 'professional' level printers may print them, but you still have the photoshop problem.

You could try photoshopping out the 20s or arranging them in a different pattern. If that doesn't work you should try cropping parts of the bill until it will print, that way you can zero-in on the "problem area" which would allow you to figure out what you have to fix.

This is one of the reasons that you should probably stick to the 94-current series 100 bill. It's far less common, which means people, on average, have less experience handling them. It's easier to forge. It's more reward for the same risk. That, and the $US 20 bill is the most commonly counterfeited bill in the states.

Do you know if it's Photoshop that I'd hypothetically be having issues with the anti-count or the HP printer? Nothing pops up on the screen If I were to print a 20. My printer would just print half the bill, then give me a link to an anti-count site. I think it's my printer.

What are the "markers" on the front of the 20? I might have tried cropping some 20s off the back, but that didn't help. If I were to hypothetically flip the image over, that does nothing.

Hypothetically speaking, I've tried the method of removing the ink from a 1 and printing over that. The problem is, the 1 dollar bill feels way to thin afterwards and I can't even get all the ink off... Is there something better then bleach, acetone, and H202?

[re1gnsupreme]

I might have tried cropping the 20 markers out, might not have worked...

My printer might be able to detect if a 20 is counterfeit from just a 5% of the actual bill. Yup, I might have cropped 95% of the 20 in several places to see if it would even print f*cking 5% of the bill without recognizing it as a counterfeit. It might have...

In the mean time, if anyone could provide me with front and back scans of a 20, 10, or 5 BEFORE 2003, that would be really appreciated.

[victorv]

I actually think it's a mix of the 20s on the back, the various "symbols" mixed in the bill, and the pattern the secondary color makes that scanners, printers, and photoshop detects. (And, at least in CS5.5, photoshop DOES detect it. A message will popup saying you can open a currency note but not print it.)

The non-colored 20s pop up as change every once in a while, but why don't you try going on ebay and getting one for around $30+shipping. It'll be in crisp condition and perfect to scan.

Like I said, I don't condone counterfeiting. But if you're gonna' have a go at it, it's not on my hands.

Realize that the 20 is one of the most counterfeited (and one of the most used) bills and, as a result, people are more familiar with them and more skeptical of them.

As far as washing bills, I don't have any knowledge on the matter, but a friend of mine once told me that lye (draino max crystals worked) will allow you to clean the bill, but in all honesty he gave up because the bill never really seemed to feel the same. He says you could probably coat it with something that might help, maybe a matte medium or a spray on coating. (And this was actually a friend, not some psuedo-anonymous bs I'm trying to convey.)

Good luck!

[Mr Omerta]

Hello thread! I see alot of NEW and old. I also see alot of ppl begging for answers and are not looking to put forth their own effort! Tsk, tsk, tsk!

[Haiti's Space Agency]

is there an all-inclusive post in this gigantic thread detailing how to pull this off and can somone link it thank you

[victorv]

I can't remember if I read this here, but I'll post it anyway.

I remember someone asking on a forum how to beat the vending machines. How do they know what bill you put in?

Well, if anyone has any experience with IR (infrared) photography, take a picture of the back of a dollar bill. Then take a picture of the back of a five. And a ten. And a fifty. And, you guessed it, of a hundred.

There are "dead"/blank spots that the IR photo picked up! They're different in size and position on every bill, but each bill has one or to varying sized bars of IR ink applied to the back. Machines read the positions of these bars and infer from that how much the bill is worth.

This is also how fancy bill counters and auto bill checkers work. Like the ones at most small to medium sized banks. If you can get past this security feature, in addition to the others, chances are your bill will be found as being fake when it hits one of the federal reserve's banks, instead of your local BoA branch. This means it'll be a LOT harder to pinpoint the bill to you. Plus, larger bills usually stay in circulation a lot longer than smaller ones and don't get scanned by the fed too often.

This just popped in my head so I figured I'd share it.

[re1gnsupreme]

Originally Posted by Mr Omerta

Hello thread! I see alot of NEW and old. I also see alot of ppl begging for answers and are not looking to put forth their own effort! Tsk, tsk, tsk!

Why put in the effort when someone else already has and they can share their knowledge? If nobody has an answer, I'm more then willing to put in the effort for myself and others.

I mean how do you know if we are willing to put forth effort or not?

Judgmental prick.

Anyways, I may have been able to use Goof Off that might have been purchased from Walmart. I may have tried the Goof Off on a 1 dollar bill and it might look like the Goof Off is better at removing most of the ink from the bill than bleach, but not all of it. Looks like using Goof Off first, then applying bleach (after drying the bill) is a better option then just using bleach alone. I might be doing more tests in a bit when my bill dries.

When I might have tried cleaning the 1 dollar bill with JUST bleach, it might have taken about 2 hours to get 90% of the ink off. The Goof Off took maybe 10 minutes and might have taken off about 60% of the ink. not only that, but the bleach method seamed to remove some op the paper as well as the ink, making the bill thinner. The Goof Off didnt seam to thin the bill out any.

And as for the 20 dollar bill that i might be trying to print but might not be able to print because of my printer: I might try to print each side twice. Once with 50% of the bill cropped out, and once with the other 50% cropped out. I will not crop the bill half and half, but more of a checker board. For example:



Picture everything in black as the bill, and everything in white cropped out. Then after the first print, I might put the paper back in the printer and print everything in white. i'm not good at explaining things, does this make any sense?