poor brake performance?

[ThaTermeneter]

The braking on my Durango is seriously underwhelming. Its hard to pinpoint exactly why I think it sucks but I drive full size trucks and vans at work everyday and they all stop much more smoothly and have a better feel in the pedal.

I tried bleeding my brakes, my helper said he didn't notice any air escaping - just brake fluid. And it did not seem to change anything - pedal still feels the same to me and it stops the same. I'm no auto expert but the pads in front should sequel if they are somewhat worn right? When I had the tires off the brake pads seemed to have significant material thickness left although the leading and trailing edges are rounded, not sure about the drums in the back - I don't know anything about them.

I can lock my brakes up and drag the tires if I smash the pedal down ( and it doesn't sink to the floor or anything that would suggest air in the lines? ), it just doesn't feel 'precise' like other vehicles I have driven.

Hopefully this isn't too vague for some diagnosis help

[yawanur]

I replaced my master cylinder recently because one of the seals was failing. I could stop, but when I held the brakes down at a light the pedal would slowly depress as the fluid got by the seal and leaked pressure, thus letting the brakes loose. Do you ever feel this happening?

[IIIII]

Could be that the pads are crystallized

http://www.cquence.net/blog/big-brak...-do-they-work/

[ThaTermeneter]

Hmm, I have never noticed but this was the first vehicle I ever drove so maybe I just don't notice the pedal being " squishy " ? I read this on a forum ;

“With the engine stopped, depress the brake pedal several times, then depress the pedal hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, the master cylinder, brake line or a brake caliper is faulty.”

Does this sound reasonable to you?

Not sure about crystallization, I believe I have the factory calipers and normal sized pads but maybe they are.

[Synopix]

I know why your brakes arent working: your cars a piece of shit.

[ThaTermeneter]

gay ass serf

[yawanur]

Originally Posted by ThaTermeneter

Does this sound reasonable to you?

I mean yeah, do you understand how hydraulic systems work? The master cylinder allows you to pressurize the brake fluid which then moves pistons on your calipers and drums that activate the brakes. If there is a fault in the system it will result in decreased performance. Faults can range from bubbles in the lines to broken seals anywhere there is moving parts [master cylinder/at one of the 4 brakes/at moving joints to accommodate suspension].

So far I've replaced drum brakes and my master cylinder but maybe if one of the trusty techies shows up they can get frustrated with noobs taking shots in the dark.

[IIIII]

http://autorepair.about.com/od/troub.../ts_brakes.htm

[Township Rebellion]

Okay; OP hasn't given much to work with, but you did mention the brake pads were rounded on their edges. They ought not to be, could be the rotor is warped and rounding the pad off, decreasing braking performance. Your best bet might be to replace both pads and rotors at the front. Then check the rear drums, you just need to remove the outer case which will reveal the inner gubbins; might be wise to replace those pads, and make sure they're adjusted properly.

If it's just the pedal that feels rough and shitty, maybe the master cylinder needs replacing/rebuilding, but it's hard to say. As usual, I have no visual reference. to go on.

[IIIII]

OP should check the front wheel bearings for adjustment.

This can caause strange braking.

This can also cause funny wear on the pads because the caliper moves as the rotor moves because the bearing is worn or loose.

[Zok Jr.]

Durango

Well, found the problem.

[AngryOnion]

Drum brakes in the rear ??If so then they might be out of adjustment and or not working the way they should.

[CitizenUzi]

^ I've driven on shot drums and my stopping was still 'OK' provided the front discs were good. Heavy vehicle too. I'm not saying that it's not possible.

Pictures can say a thousand words if we're talking about the pads and rotors or drums. I had an 86' mercury that started to slow-bleed fluid somewhere (seals methinks, based on the amount of bad/tired system seals it developed), and it behaved like you describe.... fairly easy to rule out by checking your fluid level regularly.

[Nereth]

He said he was able to lock up the tyres, so he's obviously not short of braking power, it's braking 'feel' he's complaining about. Either something more interesting is wrong than crystallized pads or air in the system, or the design of the system out of the factory just doesn't agree with how you like your cars brakes to feel.

[Optionryder420]

It's just the car. If you can lock the brakes up it's fine. Some cars just feel different. I'd only worry about it if the car isn't stopping for a good distance. If this is the case, it'd be a good idea to check the master cylinder.

With rounded brake pads, I'd buy some new ones and watch the wear on them.

[reggie_love]

Not to be "this guy" but... the durango was a fucking awful vehicle, I used to drive one in a carpool. Maybe that's the source of your problem?

[ThaTermeneter]

okay well then do i need to sell it then because I want to stop like an f150 or silverado or an econoline does not the way it does now.

oh yeah this was dumb on my part but I neglected to mention my brake and ABS lamps come on intermittently, my truck has a sequence you can turn the key and it will display diagnostic codes but when I do it the lamps will go off after the initial key turning illumination and it wont give me the code lol. i have successfully used this method to figure out other problems though when the check engine light was on. I rented a scan tool from the auto place but it was a piece of shit or im a piece of shit because I couldn't ever get it to link up with my truck

at one time from some reading I had done on a dodge forum I thought it was some sensor in the differential, but what brake system components are capable of activating the brake and ABS light? they come on and off together for me

[Trix Are For Kids]

Originally Posted by ThaTermeneter

okay well then do i need to sell it then because I want to stop like an f150 or silverado or an econoline does not the way it does now.

You really think you should sell it because it has poor braking? Yeah go ahead, sell it and never buy another vehicle again. Please.

[ThaTermeneter]

yeah stopping is kind of important.. i guess i should just replace every piece of the braking system or pay a mechanic more than the vehicles value to maybe diagnose it right

[Optionryder420]

Originally Posted by ThaTermeneter

okay well then do i need to sell it then because I want to stop like an f150 or silverado or an econoline does not the way it does now.

oh yeah this was dumb on my part but I neglected to mention my brake and ABS lamps come on intermittently, my truck has a sequence you can turn the key and it will display diagnostic codes but when I do it the lamps will go off after the initial key turning illumination and it wont give me the code lol. i have successfully used this method to figure out other problems though when the check engine light was on. I rented a scan tool from the auto place but it was a piece of shit or im a piece of shit because I couldn't ever get it to link up with my truck

at one time from some reading I had done on a dodge forum I thought it was some sensor in the differential, but what brake system components are capable of activating the brake and ABS light? they come on and off together for me

Brake and ABS lights turning on?

What year Durango is this?

[CountBlah]

[ThaTermeneter]

yeah I think that sensor is in the differential, speedo seems accurate enough and I don't think it is related to my pedal feel. I have a million other things I would fix before that.

Maybe the pedal is too firm; requires too much foot pressure ? How do I soften that bitch up?

[CountBlah]