Archived: Text file submission thread

[zombo.com]

Eventually i'd like this to be a sticky with links to all the contributed cannabis text files...for now, if you're unable to get through the sytem to contribute, if you would write em up and post em here and we'll get them processed along and properly credited out.

I'f you've already written one or more (mrjtn) link em here and i'll try to keep everything organized.

[BungHole]

I'm writing the butane extraction one. If anyone else does, ban them Zos.

[zombo.com]

spot reserved for cannabutter

[Dose Me]

http://www.zoklet.net/bbs/showthread.php?t=103819

Could this be changed up a bit to become a Text File?

I also STILL don't have permission to submit articles.

[BungHole]

Originally Posted by Dose Me

http://www.zoklet.net/bbs/showthread.php?t=103819

Could this be changed up a bit to become a Text File?

I also STILL don't have permission to submit articles.

Here you go you dirty piece of shit.

[Dose Me]

Thank you, you dickless piece of shit.

[BungHole]

Originally Posted by BungHole

Didn't piss in them, I shat in them.



Letter Key
A. Coolant Reservoir
B. Condenser
C. Extraction Column
D. Boiling Vessel/Collection Reservoir

Color Key
Bud (obviously)
Copper Pipe
Metal Container
Coolant
Butane
PVC Pipe
Material of Choice
Screen or Filter

Okay, this is how it works. Butane liquid is placed in the boiling vessel/collection reservoir. It vaporizes, and is pushed through the columns by the vapor pressure escaping through the top of the condenser (this is why the system needs to be sealed every where below this point, vapor pressure must only escape through the top, so all the butane can contact the cooling surface). Some will escape as vapor, most will condense on the cooling surface and travel down the columns, through the bud. It will soak into the bud, dissolving resins like any extraction. Bud as excess butane solvent collects, it will drip back into the boiling vessel/collection reservoir, depositing resins and vaporizing back up into the column. You simply put in the bud, then the coolant, then the butane in that order (butane can be loaded by spraying liquid down through the bud and columns, or by a port closer to to the boiling vessel/collection reservoir that can be opened then sealed at will, just make sure to close it up after). The device is placed in a well ventilated area, and left to sit. When you return, the coolant should be exhausted of CO₂, as it has sublimated out from the coolant solvent, and the butane extraction solvent should also have all escaped, leaving the boiling vessel/collection reservoir coated on the inside with the residual extract. This can then be rinsed out with another solvent, such as acetone or alcohol, and evaporated on a dish, and scraping the residue off(this means you might want to make the boiling vessel/collection reservoir detachable).

For a boiling vessel, one can use a PET plastic soft drink bottle, 2 liter would be convenient. But I personally would go with a 1 liter round bottom glass flask. I recommended submerging in warm water, especially if ambient temperatures aren't very high.

For the condenser, copper pipe with a 3/4" diameter. The length really only has to be as long as the height of the coolant reservoir, as any length past the coolant surface will have minimum effect on the condensation of the butane. Crimping the pipe every inch or so would increase surface area of condenser, facilitating more efficient cooling.

For a coolant reservoir, metal is a must, as plastic will either be eaten away by the corrosive solvent properties of the coolant, or cracked by repeated cooling and use. I recommend the metal jug that the solvent will come in ( should be buying it in 1 gallon metal drums). Cut off the top, cut a hole on the bottom to run the condenser through, and seal it with epoxy, or solder it even. Because of the properties of the coolant, a circulation system for the coolant would be quite difficult to manage. It would require a chemical resistant pump, and teflon tubing or another chemical resistant material. Maybe some kind of metal mechanical pump and copper tubing could be used, allowing for the coolant reservoir to be separate from the system, and only a coolant jacket surrounding it. If not, I would say atleast a 1 gallon coolant reservoir will need to be attached to the condenser itself. Some stores even sell solvents in 5 gallon metal drums. These would be superb, but expensive. But hey, this might be adequate for extracting pounds of bud. But, maybe you're lucky and have another large metal container at hand....

For an extraction vessel, I recommend PVC pipe. I recommend PVC because it wont really crack from cold, it's butane resistant and, and easily worked with and acquired. It also has good insulating properties, and will prevent butane from boiling in the Use pipe as small a diameter as possible, 3/4" ID if you can, using six inches for every 1-2 g bud capacity, but make sure to not make it so long the butane boils back out with out dripping back into the boiling vessel/collection reservoir. The thinner the column of bud, the more surface area of the bud the butane will contact. But due to length/height of both the extraction column and condenser column being limited, and thin tubing of short length limiting bud capacity, there is an alternative one must use for an extractor of larger capacity. Instead of a single condenser column and 3/4" ID PVC, one could use 4" ID pipe with a cap, and fit five, maybe six condenser columns coming from the cap. This will allow recondensed butane to drip back onto the bud from several points, while increasing over all surface area of contact between the butane and the supercooled surfaces. Then cap the bottom, with a 3/4" ID PVC pipe coming out, leading into the boiling vessel/collection reservoir. Either way, there must be a screen or filter below the bud in the extraction column.

For coolant, plenty of stuff could be used. Liquid nitrogen, ice cold alcohol with extremely low ambient temperatures, maybe you can even get away with an ice salt bath. But most likely the most effective coolant would be dry ice dissolved in acetone. Dry ice can be bought at local grocery stores by the pound. It is used to keep frozen food frozen in coolers. Dry ice is frozen carbon dioxide, which sublimates (turns from solid to gas, skipping the liquid state) at -108°F/-78°C. Butane boils at around 32°F/0°C. Water freezes 32°F/0°C, and do to heat exchange not being 100% efficient, prevents the condenser from going below the freezing temperature of water, keeping the butane at it's boiling point and letting it escape. Therefore ice can't be used. It can't even be used as a solvent, as the dry ice will freeze the water before it reaches the adequate temperatures, and is polar, not allowing the non-polar CO₂ to dissolve in it (think of polar as water, and non-polar as oil, they don't mix). One could use isopropyl alcohol. But it is sold by the liter at most. One could use several 1 liter bottles of isopropyl rubbing alcohol, it might even be cheaper, and allow you to use a more sensitive material for the coolant reservoir. Either way, dry ice must be dissolved in a non-polar to moderately polar solvent with a freezing temperature well above -108°F/-78°C. Use as much dry ice as will dissolve in the solvent. The more dry ice used, the longer the coolant will last, and the longer and more efficient the extraction process will be.

For butane, I'm still not sure what amount could be used. Theoretically, with enough cooling on top and warming below, one get away with using only the volume the bud is able to absorb, plus a few milliliters more, just enough so a few drops are always boiling away, condensing, and running back through the bud each second. But, the more butane one uses, the longer the extraction can run without increasing cooling, therefore making it more efficient.

Bud, well, that all depends on you. Design the setup around the quality and quantity of bud used.

The whole thing should be properly sealed. The coolant reservoir shouldn't leak coolant, and the only place butane should escape from is the very top of the condenser. All of this crucial to the proper function of the device.

This device should allow one to efficiently extract large amounts of bud with minimum amounts of butane.

Ha ha penises.

[Dose Me]

fuck I submitted one and didn't put it in here. If I can get into "edit" it like Zok's thread said I'll throw it up.

[Dose Me]

The Seed. A small organic capsule. Appearing insignificant at first, the seed seems like a lowly device of nature. A crude and primitive shell. But....the simple seed contains the secrets to producing some of the largest organisms on earth. Even the mighty redwoods of California once came from a seed smaller than button. Using seeds to grow your cannabis is the natural way, for some, the only way.

In this tutorial you will learn to unlock the secrets within the seed of cannabis sativa and bring them forth to your benefit.


Here is a guide that might help you through (what I consider) the most stressful leg of your seed-to-smoke journey. There are plenty of other methods and other good sources so I encourage you to do your own research as well.

Getting Seeds:

There are many ways to get your seeds. The easiest way is getting bagseed.

Bagseed: Seeds that come when you buy dat bammer weed. Don't worry...just because the weed you got the seeds from sucked...doesn't mean that the cannabis YOU grow will suck. Quite the opposite actually because you're going to take care of your plants and make sure they don't end up in a brick on their way to some nignogs in Camden.

**WARNING**

IF YOU EVER FIND A SEED IN A BAG OF DANK (top-grade pot that isn't supposed to have seeds in it). KEEP THIS SEED.

**WARNING**

Chances are it came from a hermaphrodite plant. Basically one of their (whoever grew it) females may have popped out some male parts and pollinated itself in an attempt to carry on it's species. If this is the case (as it usually is with top grade...because the growers never have males with their females) then that seed has a 50/50 chance of being Herm/Female instead of Male/Female. Which means that that seed WILL produce smokable bud...even if it does go herm and later fertilize itself...it will be 10x better then dat bammer or brick weed.

Seed Selection:

So you've got your bag of seeds...by whichever method you chose.

There are mainly two kinds of seeds you'll see really....light colored soft ones and darker hard seeds. Don't be afraid to press a seed between your fingers just a little bit. Don't overdo it but if it crushes under slight pressure it's no good. Add to the discard pile any seeds that look damaged or cracked in any way. Also discard any runt seeds or ones that generally don't look fully developed. Preserve the hard dark ones in a cool dry place that you're not going to use right now.

Don't be too picky because you can always throw them out if they don't germ! Pick as many of the hardest darkest ones that you need for your planned operation.

Good dark hard seeds on the left, damaged, light, soft seeds on the right.


Germination:

You'll need a good airtight and light-tight container. A chewing tobacco can that carried pouches makes a great container. Remove (or enjoy!) the pouches and wash the can throughly. Use a 10% bleach and 90% water solution just to be safe. Pouches are preferred over other kinds because the pouches touch less surface of the inside of the can.

Now get some paper towels. Fold one up into a small square/rectangle. Completely soak it in warm water. Press the square between your palms to drain out all excess water. Remember; you don't want to drown your seeds. Just make sure it's very damp and press it into the bottom of the can.

For this example the crappy discarded seeds were used instead of the viable ones. This is how you would put your hard, dark, viable seeds into the can. Spread them out so they aren't stealing moisture from each other and have room to extend their taproot.

Place another warm-soaked paper towel on top of them and close it.

Now put it somewhere where it wont be disturbed. The top of a cable box was chosen here because it provides a little heat. A little warmth encourages germination versus a cold environment.

Seedlings:


Some of your seeds will germinate faster than others. Plant them as soon as they tap root is extended out of the seed shell.

You'll know your seedlings are ready for the ground when they look like this.

At this stage they should be removed from the can. If they stay in there too long past this point the tap root will begin to rot. You should have your medium ready by now whether it's rockwool or peat pots something small is nice. You can even throw them into plastic cups with some soil for this stage.

Plant them 1/2 inch deep...no deeper. Make sure they are completely covered though. Plant them with the taproot facing down. This will help your plants get rooted a little quicker.

Peat pots were used here and the pots were placed in a bowl. Cannabis doesn't have extremely strong roots so if you use peat pots make sure you put some slices in the sides/bottom so the roots can easily penetrate through the pot.

Cannabis needs a lot of moisture in its first stages of life. Using a plastic cover like this will keep the humidity very high...so high in fact they'll may only need to be watered one time!

Place them under a small light like a single 23w CFL. This is for warmth mostly they do not need any light until they break the surface.

Once your seedlings break the surface take off your cover. They're going to need fresh air and plenty of light from now until harvest!

Be careful with your seeds/seedlings. Treat them with care and keep a good eye on them. Before you know it your seeds will be seedlings and your seedlings will be smoke! Good luck and stay safe!

[zombo.com]

nice...please put at the top if it's already been submitted or if it needs to get into the pipeline.
Becoming a contributor was a lot easier than expected. the only thing that you might run into trouble on is that the "contributions " box is only available from the actual front page, not the forums front page.

[olive]

could my dwc guide be text-ified?

[zombo.com]

certainly, link it for me? i'm out of town on a crappy lappy atm, so i won't be doing much that requires any real comp time until wednesday. olive if it's all in one post just take a look at it, see if there's any changes you want to make to it and link it here please/

[olive]

http://www.zoklet.net/bbs/showthread.php?p=1555178
I made a quick ascii diagram to use in place of the picture for the textfile beneath the picture. Not sure if it'll look right in the textfile..

[zombo.com]

sorry olive, i lost track of this for a couple days, what we need to do is get you added as a contributor, so you can submit it and it gets properly attributed.
It only takes a minute or so, let me find the info:

Originally Posted by Zok

At long last I think the software is indeed ready to be used by the masses. If you want to be a contributor, all you have to do is visit: http://www.zoklet.net/bbs/profile.php?do=editusergroups and choose to join the group "Contributor"

After doing so you will see a new sidebar block on the main page (right hand side). Here you can view, edit, and create articles.

After writing your article, an editor must go through and approve it. Currently there are only a handful of editors but I will add people tonight. After the editor has approved it, it will sit in the publishing queue until it gets published (it happens automatically once a day in the order they were approved).

Please read the article writing guide - it explains quirks of the software and teaches you how to write a solid document. http://www.zoklet.net/bbs/showthread.php?t=89127

the new sidebar block is out on the mainpage, www.zoklet.net then you should just be able to copy and paste the article over and submit.

I think there a couple minor formatting things dfg wants, like centering the images, he's got all that here:

http://www.zoklet.net/bbs/showthread.php?t=117795


or if you wanted it anonymous, PM me and i'll handle it.

[zombo.com]

test post