Maintenance of ignition components

[RebelForce]

sup. Been havin' some ignition problems with my car this week, it made a cold slow start (hesitates for about 4 seconds to turn on) once this week, and today it stalled after I started it.

Needless to say I took my baby into the shop, and got hit up with how "it MIGHT be able to be fixed with proper ignition maintenance" whereas there term of ignition maintenance equated with large chunk of my wallet missing compensating for OEM replacement parts for some very simple components in my automobile. Now I realize this is mostly because I drive a 93' Lexus and parts for this car are higher priced. But ya know what? I dont feel like dishing out 7 bills for this.

They "recommended" that I replace my spark plug , spark plug wires , fuel filter , air filter , cap and totor.

Could I fix this problem myself? I already know my particular model is going to be a pain in the ass to replace the fuel filter, I will need car ramp blocks so I can safely get under the car. I just don't know what they mean by "cap" and "totor"

[Professor_Skullsworth]

Most importantly, what engine does it have? Im not sure for something that early, but a lot of the toyota v6 engines the rear spark plugs are hidden under the intake plenum.

As far as the cap & rotor,...follow your spark plug wires from end to end. One end connects to the spark plug, and one end connects to the "cap" (meaning distributor cap). If you remove the distributor cap you will find the rotor.

I would normally recommend it as a pretty easy start to working on your own car, but since you didnt know what a cap or rotor was i'd recommend you keep someone around to help that knows what they are doing. It is an easy job when you know what you're doing, but if you fukk it up itll leave your engine not running/running very poorly.

[MunkeyQ]

Originally Posted by Professor_Skullsworth

Most importantly, what engine does it have? Im not sure for something that early, but a lot of the toyota v6 engines the rear spark plugs are hidden under the intake plenum.

This. Being a Lexus, they'll probably hide the plugs under a plastic acoustic cover, which you'll need to remove first.

Since it's fuel injected, the pickup filter will most likely be inside the tank. You'll need to drop the tank to change the filter if there isn't an access hatch inside the car...this is a painful procedure. Depending on the system, some cars mount the pickup pump very close to the pressure pump under the car meaning you need to depressurise the system. 50psi pushing fuel in your face is not funny... The fine filters in the high pressure side are generally designed to last the life of the car so you shouldn't need to change them.

Also, I advise you to get someone in the know to show you how to properly change a spark plug. I know it may sound very basic, but you don't want to cross-thread it or overtighten, resulting in a very expensive repair to the head's threads.

Otherwise, replacing the cap and leads are a nice straightforward task. Just make sure you mark which lead goes where - don't want to get them mixed up.

[RebelForce]

Its a v-6 DOHC 24–valve engine. I can see some of the spark plugs and spark plug wires and where they go. I'll def. look into finding the right procedures on changing the plugs, caps and leads.

[ratfrink]

Originally Posted by RebelForce

I just don't know what they mean by "cap" and "totor"

Rotor.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distributor

Will a 93 Lexus have mechanical ignition? I would have assumed that it had a coil pack and ECU?

[Professor_Skullsworth]

^ Well if it does have the dizzy, i'd imagine it is not fully mechanical (points and all) but a dizzy with a pickup for a spark controller.

[Vargus]

Originally Posted by Professor_Skullsworth

^ Well if it does have the dizzy, i'd imagine it is not fully mechanical (points and all) but a dizzy with a pickup for a spark controller.

Right. At least with alot of GM I4 and V6 engines with HEI, the ignition modules absolutely loved to go bad at the worst times. Hard starts, poor idle, stalling, etc were all problems with a faulty ignition module before they finally gave up. I think that is a much more likely problem than wires or plugs. (I've driven my Fiero wide open with one of the plug wires gone. It's not that big a deal that you couldn't easilly start the engine.)

OP, if you are up for it, pull the ignition module out and have it tested at a local Autozone or the like.

[ratfrink]

Originally Posted by Professor_Skullsworth

^ Well if it does have the dizzy, i'd imagine it is not fully mechanical (points and all) but a dizzy with a pickup for a spark controller.

Yeah it won't have points. My Toyota has the pretty ancient A engine (it's 1.3 litres but has 12 valves, so I'm not sure what generation it is) and that's got a hall effect sensor.

[RebelForce]

Well I managed to pick up the parts myself and got everything bought installed for a much cheaper price than seven bills.

I still got kind of a rough start last friday however.

I'm guessing I'll have to continue replacing parts until this problem is fixed...

I'm guessing I might have to pick up a new starter er' alternator?

[ratfrink]

Nah. Those are really expensive.

All the starter motor does is spin the engine around. If it spins quickly but doesn't start, the starter motor isn't at fault. And if it has enough juice to spin the engine, the alternator is charging your battery just fine too.

[Professor_Skullsworth]

have the battery load tested