These are the 2 teks I've found which seam to the most comprehensive and 1 for making an opium like substance from poppy pods which could be a good starting point. Although if one wanted to create a opium like substance first I think and alcohol extraction would be better and easier. Probably something like warm Isopropyl alcohol. I'll put the more convetional 1 first then followed by the 1 I was origanally asking questions on. Neither mention about wetting and freezing the crushed pods, I read that else where. Is the second a better way to go?Forgot I added questions and notes to this after the steps as this was going to be my origanal post before I came across the second tek.
This Tek works. It is based upon the paper “Documentation of a heroin manufacturing process in Afghanistan,” Created for the UN by the German police. This paper shows the process by which Afghanis make heroin from opium latex. These people know what they are doing, and don’t fuss around, they might be killed if they waste products or material, or the at the very least might not get paid. As will be shown in this Tek, there is absolutely no reason this wont work with poppy pods. You can use this with CFO, CPS, ABCDEFG or what ever other acronym for poppy pod concentrate you like. You can also defat or use wax, or whatever you want, but its not needed. Here is a list of what is needed.
Equitment and materials needed:
100 big poppy pods, or 30 ish doses. Any less is not really worth the effort. (Poppy pods have to be from the Papaver Somniferum variaty)
Water (Some teks say to use 10 times the weight when using opium but with pods can be reduced to 5 times the weight. 1ml = 1g )
A BIG pot. I use a brewing pot with a spigot and a filter. Really easy.
A siphon starter with a shield to prevent siphoning sediment (brewing store)
PH papers (no need for an expensive meters) (Some teks say a meter will be better, the meter will have to be able to work in tempretures of >80c)
(optional) A press, one can be made with a jack and some wood, and some creativity.
( Fine cloth, Bio diesel bags, Coffee filter papers)
Calcium Oxide. About 250g or less. Make sure it’s Calcium Oxide. Other compounds may work, but Calcium Oxide is guaranteed to work, You can get the lowest purity compound (it think its called technical grade) from a chem. supply house. Really, just buy it from a chem. supply house, the hardware store generally doesn’t have this type of lime. You can make it pretty easy as well, google it. (Calcium Hydroxide can also be used. Avalible as Builders Lime or Picking Lime)
Ammonium Chloride. 3x the amount of Calcium Oxide. The chems are pretty cheap, and I don’t have quantities (didn’t measure when I did it, sorry) so this is probably more than you need.
1) Powder the pods, and I mean powder. Strain the dry powder through the mesh and re grind anything left in the strainer. I use a food processor (Teks for cooked flake opium say remove the seeds first as they contain oils that will end up in the final product. Dont think this is a problem here but if it is the whole seeds should be returned to the podds once powdered as they can have latex on the sides of they)
2)boil a pig pot of water, enough to make tea out of all the pods, let it cool to 80 C, add powdered poppy pods and stir well. Cover and let sit for 5 min so the powder can absorb some water. ( Think this should be longer. Some teks for this and making cooked flake opium leave this solution at 70c for a few hours, no higher than tis as some teks same morphine becomes usless phesomorphine at tempretures over 85c)
3) slowly mix in teaspoons of Calcium, wait 4 min, test the pH and repeat until the pH is around 11, but not lower than 10. Let is sit, covered, for 4-12 hrs. re test PH, should be between 10-12 (Maybe add in smaller amounts than a teaspoon at a time)
What you now have: you now have poppy mush, containing both water soluble parts and water insoluble parts, and calcium morphenate, which despite shitty information to the contrary, is very water soluble. So... lets get rid of all that insolable crap
4)Filter and use the press to press out the filtrate. Fine linen works well as a filter material, or silk, or polyester. Mix the pulp with a good amount of water, and repeat. (Bio diesel bags can also be used, The finer the better. Avalible down to 0.1 micron. You would want to first filter through a fine metal strainer first to stop the bio desil bag cloging up. Dont for get to squash the liquid out of the plant material in the metal strainer into the bio diesil bag.)
5) now let the liquid sit for atleast a day, in a cool, dark area. It is good to use a big glass or clear plastic container so you can see the sediment. You want as much sediment to form as possible, because if it forms later it will end up in your final product. keeping it cool slows micro-currents and encourages sediment. When the sentiment has formed, carefully skim off any crap floating on the surface, then CAREFULLY siphon the liquid of the sediment. It should be coffee coloured. (optional: now filter through several coffee filters, but this can take a while.) ( Might not be nessasary if a bio diesil bag was used.)
What you now have: all the water-soluble crap, the soluble morphine, and a little bit of insoluble’s (but not a lot). Soooooo... lets precipitate that morphine.
6) slowly add Ammonium chloride, while stirring, till the solution stabilizes at pH 9. Leave the solution to sit overnight, Check pH again, adjust, and filter through wet cloth. Dry the filtrate, that’s your morphine base. Discard liquid. (Some teks heat the solution back upto 70c before adding the Ammonium cloride then leave to cool before filtering. Some teks say to filter though coffee filter paper , scientific filter paper maybe even better.)
That’s it. Don’t overcomplicate stuff, your life will be better for it.
If you want some quantities for the chemicals, read the article and do some math.
Yeild was 4 grams of (what it think was) 50% morphine, from 100 really big, good pods. HCL can be applied to for the hydrochloride salt (But thats another topic), or just smoke it. About 160-200Mg is a great experience. Have not tried oral ingestion of base."
Hope you enjoy!"
And now the tek my first post was based off
"let me mention a few things. all of them are suggestions and are not necessary. all of the previous techniques WILL WORK. these suggestions will optimize any procedure if implemented properly and with care. all of them describe something that has and will never happen in reality and are complete works of fiction. they are mainly presented to give the reader a better understanding and to get the thought process focused on crucial aspects of the overall procedure.
1) unless you live in afghanistan, southest asia, or eastern europe, the poppy pods you will get almost ALWAYS have a morphine content of about 0.5% dry weight (rarely more, but even more rarely less). "arizona" poppies are included.
an extraction of anything less than 100 grams is a complete waste of your time. best to use a kilo or more (depending on the pod size, a kilo should be between 500 and 150 pods)
2) seeds are worthless. they contain no more than .01% morphine by weight (this is backed up by a case of an OD from poppy seed tea, brewed with 2 lbs of seeds, resulting in 600 mgs in the person's blood at TOD). seeds do not actually develop morphine INSIDE. seeds get COVERED in a small layer of sap extruded by the plant during its lifetime. this sap contains a small amount of morphine.
seeds may contain other alkaloids and even basic (amine) tanins(phenols) which will contaminate the result (morphine is an amino phenol). NONE of the industrial procedures for the extraction of morphine from straw utilize seeds. 100% use dry pods, deseeded.
3)PULVERIZE the pods. dont just grind them up. when a natural product specialist quantiatively extracts a compound, he/she does not just "grind it up." they put the source material (dried roots, pods, sea-sponge, jelly fish, whatever) in a cell-lysing sonnicator or a food processor for HOURS at a time.
this is not just: "throw the pods in a coffee grinder for a minute or so." this is: "throw the pods in a cofee grinder for an hour"
if you do this, you will never ever need more than 3 extractions. nor will you need hot or boiling solvent.
4) almost every single one of the "patents" available by a google search are completely worthless. a patent does not have to describe a process that works, nor does it have to describe a process that is good or efficient. all it has to do is not involve the use of any OTHER patents.
unfortunately, this extraction is exceedingly difficult and tricky. it really is. the morphine content is low, there are tons of impurities with similar chemical structures, etc.
really the only way to produce a high quality prep is to DO IT YOURSELF AND KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
dont use Ca(OH)2. use NaOH/KOH. they are easy to buy, and they are not particularly "watched." you wouldnt need more than 100 grams (standard small bottle) anyway.
dont use store bought "pool" muriatic acid. get good HCl from a real chemical supplier. again, this stuff is pretty damn common, and shouldnt be a concern anywhere. once again DO NOT USE SULFURIC ACID. dont use the acetate either. it mucks it up later on.
get a pH tester (and calibration solutions). pH strips are useless for this because you need 0.1 pH accuracy. a 15 dollar quick tester is fine.
Why the tester? the pKa of the tertiary amonium acid is something like 8.5 and the pKa of the phenol is 9.6 or 9.5. you literally need a pH of EXACTLY 9.1 or 9 to get a good result (mentioned already, but just an explanation)
realistically, the only way to do this is to extract it with either some aqueous HCl (pH of about 2.5) or some acidic methanol or ethanol (feel free to use denatured ethanol, as it is typically denatured with methanol or ispropanol, not benzene) and then concentrate it.
if you use acid (Water), you should bring the pH up to about 8-9 when you concentrate it. dont concentrate it with acid.
dont use coffee filters for filtering the final product. they are crap for filtering powder (which is what the morphine and codeine will be when you intially precipitate them). get real laboratory filter papers.
either whatman 40s or whatman 42s (8 micron and 2.5 micron respectively, but not 41s).
1) pulverize the straw as much as possible. submerge in water brought to a pH between 2.5 and 3. let stand for several hours (overnight, but not days).
2) filter through a stainless mesh to get the big chunks
**) IDEALLY you would filter it through a second, smaller mesh filter, like those sometimes used in coffee makers (not a paper coffee filter, but more of a plastic, small mesh filter) like this:
3) filter throught an actual coffee filter (paper). make sure that the coffee filter you are using does not have small holes. these ones typically DO NOT have holes, but are so thin that several must be used:http://www.amazon.com/BUNN-BCF250-Co...326450&sr=1-24
the type pictured here (the one on the top of the pile) typically DO have holes: http://www.dkimages.com/discover/pre...774/172387.JPG
the holes are there so that a small amount of the small-grain ground coffee beans actually go into the pot. this is NOT desirable for the process described here.
4) you now have (most likely) a TON, probably a liter or 2, of an acidic, filtered, poppy pod extract.
you want to concentrate it.
bring the pH up to about 8 (near the pH range where the morphine is not soluble in the water). why this pH? the double bond in the morphine is NOT sensitive to base (hydroxide). nor is any other part of the molecule. at a pH of 8 (or, really, even 9) there is no acid left, and the pH is not high enough to "deprotonate" any of the weakly acidic carbon acids on morphine (all of which have pka values above 20, so it doesnt matter anyway).
realistically, you could probably bring the pH even higher than that without being concerned (again, because morphine is pretty inert to base), but considering the small quantity that you will likely end up with, it is probably better to be paranoid and stick to a safe pH.
if you follow my advice here, you can nearly boil the solution. yes. i wouldnt recommend it, but it is done ALL THE TIME. again, the solution (at the pH I mentioned) is pretty inert to morphine.
it would probably be best (safest) to do this at a lower temp, somewhere near 70 C or maybe even a bit higher. concentrate it WAY down.
how much should you have in the end?
if 100 grams of straw was used, and (for the sake of simplicity) the morphine content was 1%, there will be 1 gram of morphine in the solution. the solubility of morphine HCl is about 20 mg/mL (it is actually a little bit more) at room temp (higher at higher temps)
that means, you will want no less than 50 mL of solution. so, basicallly, concentrate the HELL out of it.
5) now, this is something that not everyone knows because the dont have AFAF who has done this before.
this concentration, although it will not affect the morphine, WILL affect a bunch of other stuff in the solution. bring the pH back DOWN to like 2-3.
6) let it sit in the fridge overnight
7) a bunch of white/grey/brown sludge will form (yes, sludge, not powder). filter this off. no. it is not morphine. it is not codeine. there will of course be SOME morphine in it because there will be some of the solution left in it, but it is not worth it to save it. because you had previously concentrated the solution, it is ok to ADD a bit of acidic water here to wash any soluble alkaloids out of the sludge (dont use more than 20 mL)
if you are really worried about squeezing every last mg out of this process, you can save it. but if you are trully concerned with miligrams, then you should just make tea.
take this now acidic, filtered, concentrated solution and bring the pH WAY up to 12. (yes, very high, dont worry and DONT USE SODIUM BICARB OR CARBONATE). ensure that the pH STAYS at 12. this is best done by checking the pH a few hours after you did this.
9) let the aforementioned solution sit in the fridge overnight. precipitate will form.
10) filter the basic solution.
SAVE THIS PRECIPITATE. Why this? because AFOAF has yet to see any data on the solubility of the phenoxide (morphenate). it could be > 20mg/mL, it could be much less. if it is much less, that means some of the precipitate is morphine (although i really doubt this, and this step is used everywhere, including southeast asia)
11)bring the pH down to 9-9.1 and refrigerate overnight. precipitate will form. this is morphine and codeine base. there may also be SOME salt (NaCl or KCl). if you used sodium bicarbonate or sodium carbonate, there may also be some of those solids (this is why advice was given AGAINST using this stuff.)
12)filter/decant this solution THROUGH REAL FILTER PAPER. NOT THROUGH COFFEE FILTERS. COFFEE FILTERS WERE NOT MEANT TO FILTER SMALL ORGANIC MOLECULES. note: this may take a while, but you will get everything.
the solubility of morphine base in water is ~20-30 mg/liter (LITER). if you have 50 mL of solution, you should only have about 1-1.5 mg of morphine in the solution. if you have a LITER of solution, you will have 20 or 30 mgs.
that is why the concentration was so important.
more info that you would not know if you did not have AFOAF who had ACTUALLY DONE THE PROCEDURE, rather than some sophomore biochemistry student who "totally knows what he/she is talking about" because they did an internship over the summer and took an O-chem lab course.
Here is the clincher:
MORPHINE BASE IS NOT VERY SOLUBLE IN ALMOST ANY ORGANIC SOLVENT THAT IS IMISCIBLE WITH WATER. it is MOST soluble in ethanol, methanol, glymol, and highly concentrated aqueous PEG solutions, TEA, hunigs base, etc. Basically anything that is SUPER polar (water soluble), but also has some saturated carbon component to it.
I know how it sounds, but it is ABSOLUTELY TRUE. good luck trying. it will take you GALLONS of even the most polar solvent (ethyl acetate) to get even 500 mgs of morphine out of pH 9 water (even if you add a ton of brine to the water).
it was tried by AFOAF. he sat in front of the rotavap for 3 hours, pulled off 3 liters of EtAC and got literally nothing. nothing at all. not even fogged up glassware from a thin film. he tried it again wtih DCM and Ether. NOTHING nothing whatsoever. complete waste of time.
RECRYSTALLIZATION OF MORPHINE BASE:
1) take the DRY solid (which may be yellow or brown) from the previous step and dissolve it
in 25-50 mL of HOT ethanol/methanol (the less the better). note that you DO NOT want to use "everclear" or 95.6% ethanol. if you need to, use denatured ethanol. you want ZERO water. they sell denatured ethanol in the US, which is 80-90% ethanol with 10 or 20 % methanol or isopropanol (they stopped using benzene a long time ago). this denatured stuff is FINE. if you cant find something like this, use methanol.
**note: the volume mentioned is just a general guideline. you want to use THE MINIMUM amount of ethanol necessary to dissolve the solid.
2) filter this solution, while hot, through real laboratory filter paper.
3) add 1/2 the volume used in step 1 of diethyl ether or assuming that you are using ethanol or denatured ethanol, you can also use a hexanes (pet ether). the hexanes wont work with methanol because hexanes and methanol are immiscable.
4) let the previous solution (1 part ethanol/methanol to 0.5 part diethyl ether
or hexanes) stand until you start to see signs of precipitate forming.
5) immediately add another 1/2 of the original volume of ethanol of ether or hexanes (resulting in 1:1 ethanol to ether or hexanes).
6) refrigerate/cool this solution.
7) collect the solids that form by filtering the solution. keep the remaining solvent (the mother liquour).
the result should be near or greater than 80% purity, with the majority of the impurities being codeine, solvent, and water. if you are REALLY ANAL, you can repeat this step up to 2 more times. if you did it 2 more times, you would have >95% purity.
note: if you dont see anything at step 4 after a while, you can try scraping the inside of the glass with something, or you can add a single grain of tablesalt or something.
if you still dont see anything, you can add more ether.
if you still dont see anything then you used too much ethanol in step 1. you should evaporate EVERYTHING back to dryness, and then add LESS hot ethanol this time around.