Why are my photo's blurring around the corners?

[Virus]

[Illuvatar]

Is it auto focus? what sort of camera are you using?
Its possibly set wrong, mold or dirt in/on the lense.

[parkus]

A better photo would help.

Are you using a filter, or after market lens?

[Virus]

Originally Posted by Illuvatar

Is it auto focus? what sort of camera are you using?
Its possibly set wrong, mold or dirt in/on the lense.

That's my A630, manual focus. I got exactly what I wanted for the test photo, but look at the dime. Notice how it is clear, but in the corner it is blured. It does that to all of the corners when I take a macro shot. It is my stock lense, but this camera has done remarkably well considering it is not a DSLR.

[Virus]

Originally Posted by parkus

A better photo would help.

Are you using a filter, or after market lens?

Sure let me get one right now, stock lense, no filter.

[Virus]

The focal point is on the federal reserve stamp. Notice how you get severe blur by the 5. Why is my camera doing this, or is this something that is supposed to happen with macro shots?

[Illuvatar]

Do you mean THIS canon a630

[Ripthatshit]

If you don't want it to blur put it on manual, move back and zoom in..

/thread

[Virus]

Originally Posted by Illuvatar

Do you mean THIS canon a630

Yeah that one.

And rip that, I'm a good foot away from the sheet of paper. Do I need to go more?

[parkus]

Is it full manual?

If you can, have a play around with aperture, it affects the 'depth' of focus.

[Ripthatshit]

Originally Posted by Virus

Yeah that one.

And rip that, I'm a good foot away from the sheet of paper. Do I need to go more?

Thats how you get rid of the blur , if you want real close up macro each part of the object should be around the same distance from the camera or it will blur.

[Virus]

Originally Posted by Ripthatshit

Thats how you get rid of the blur , if you want real close up macro each part of the object should be around the same distance from the camera or it will blur.

I'm looking for the blur after a certain point, not before. You know how when you take a portrait if you do it right everything behind the persons face is blurred, same prinicipal...

[parkus]

Originally Posted by parkus

Is it full manual?

If you can, have a play around with aperture, it affects the 'depth' of focus.

...

[Miaow]

The corners are out of the depth of field/focal length.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field

[Kwinnie Bogan]

I don't know Parkus is the only one who has said it, but the problem is your arpeture size setting (too small).

[deus]

Originally Posted by parkus

Is it full manual?

If you can, have a play around with aperture, it affects the 'depth' of focus.

This.

Although I'm guessing that camera won't allow for manual setting of the aperture. If that's the case, it'll probably be trying to guess an appropriate value manually.

1) Try putting the camera on "macro" mode, if it has one
2) Try putting it on "landscape" mode. This will tell the controller to minimise aperture, getting the maximum depth of field in focus.

If neither of those work, it probably means the lens is at its minimum aperture. This means you either need to swap lenses (not possible in this case), or try:

Originally Posted by Ripthatshit

move back and zoom in..

[The General]

go to manual or switch lenses

[honkymahfah]

thats just bokeh, its appearing at the corners as the corners are not at the same distance as the focal length. The only reason portraits have only behind them blurred is because there is nothing to become blurred in front of the subject.

[scyre]

its not so much that its blurring in the corners, its that its blurring the further it gets from the focal plane, and due to the perspective used, the things in the corners are effectively far enough from the focal plane to be out of focus
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tut...h-of-field.htm

[ThadG]

Originally Posted by KwinnieBogan

I don't know Parkus is the only one who has said it, but the problem is your arpeture size setting (too small).

Too large, actually. Large apertures compress depth of field, small ones expand it.

[bushy]

Originally Posted by Virus

I'm looking for the blur after a certain point, not before. You know how when you take a portrait if you do it right everything behind the persons face is blurred, same prinicipal...

Then you need a better lens, and an SLR not a point and shoot.

[Sybil]

Originally Posted by bushy

Then you need a better lens, and an SLR not a point and shoot.

Not true.

Virus:

Why you get blur after a certain point and not before a certain point on those portray pictures is because there isn't anything before to be blurred, if you kept a piece of paper closer, then the persons face a bit further, the piece of paper, close, would be blurred, the nose, or eye, on whichever you focus, would be sharp, and the ear, for example, would be blurred again. Ofcourse this also depends on which diaphragm you set it. The smaller your diaphragm (for example f1.8 or f2.8) the smaller the point of focus in your picture will be. The larger (for example f8 or f11, these will give you the sharpest pictures) the larger the in-focus area will be.

[bushy]

sybil, the reason is because that camera isn't made for pictures that close


that camera is made for taking pictures of people, and anything farther than probably 10 feet.

when you get closer, the lens can only focus on anything between a certain range.

It's basic lens shit.

The camera was not made to take macro images with a larger depth of field.

[Sybil]

Originally Posted by bushy

sybil, the reason is because that camera isn't made for pictures that close


that camera is made for taking pictures of people, and anything farther than probably 10 feet.

when you get closer, the lens can only focus on anything between a certain range.

It's basic lens shit.

The camera was not made to take macro images with a larger depth of field.

Well, I don't know if it has the option to manually set your diaphragm, but it should have a macro setting on it.

[bushy]

Originally Posted by Sybil

Well, I don't know if it has the option to manually set your diaphragm, but it should have a macro setting on it.

Specifications
Type of Camera
Type of Camera
Compact digital still camera with built-in flash, 4x Optical / 4x Digital / 16x Combined Zoom
Image Capture Device
Type
8.0 Megapixel, 1/1.8 inch type Charge Coupled Device (CCD)
Total Pixels
Approx. 8.30 Megapixels
Effective Pixels
Approx. 8.0 Megapixels
Lens
Focal Length
7.3-29.2mm f/2.8-4.1 (35mm film equivalent: 35-140mm)
Digital Zoom
4x
Focusing Range
Normal: 1.5 ft./45cm-infinity
Macro:

0.39 in.-1.5 ft./1-45cm (WIDE), 9.8 in.-1.5 ft./25-45cm (TELE)
Autofocus System
TTL Autofocus
Viewfinder & Monitor
Viewfinder
Real-image optical zoom viewfinder
LCD Monitor
2.5 inch low-temperature polycrystalline silicon TFT color LCD
LCD Pixels
Approx. 115,000 pixels
LCD Coverage
100%
Aperture and Shutter
Maximum Aperture
f/2.8 (W) - f/4.1 (T)
Shutter Speed
15-1/2500 sec. (settable in Tv and M)
Exposure Control
ISO Sensitivity
Auto, High ISO Auto, ISO 80/100/200/400/800 equivalent
Light Metering Method
Evaluative, Center-weighted average, Spot** Metering frame is fixed to the center or linked to the AF frame
Exposure Control Method
Program AE, Shutter Speed-Priority AE, Aperture-Priority AE, Manual
Exposure Compensation
+/-2 stops in 1/3-stop increments
White Balance
White Balance Control
Auto, Preset (Daylight, Cloudy, Tungsten, Fluorescent, Fluorescent H, Underwater), Custom
Flash
Built-in Flash
Auto, Auto w/ Red-Eye Reduction, Auto w/ Slow Synchro, Flash On, Flash On w/ Red-Eye Reduction, Flash On w/ Slow Synchro, Flash Off
Flash Range
Normal: 1.5-14 ft./45cm-4.2m (W), 1.5-9.8 ft./45cm-3.0m (T)
Macro: 9.8 in.-1.5 ft./25-45cm (W/T) (when sensitivity is set to ISO Auto)
Recycling Time
10 sec. or less (battery voltage=6.0V)
Flash Exposure Compensation
+/-2 stops in 1/3-stop increments
Shooting Specifications
Shooting Modes
Auto; Creative: P, Av, Tv, M, C; Image: Portrait, Landscape, Night Scene, Special Scene (Foliage, Snow, Beach, Fireworks, Underwater, Indoor, Kids & Pets, Night Snapshot, Color Accent, Color Swap), Stitch Assist, Movie
Photo Effects
My Colors
Vivid, Vivid Blue, Vivid Green, Vivid Red, Neutral, Sepia, Black & White, Positive Film, Lighter Skin Tone, Darker Skin Tone, Custom Color
Self-Timer
Activates shutter after an approx. 2-sec./10-sec. delay, Custom
Wireless Control
Not available
Continuous Shooting
Approx. 1.8 fps
Image Storage
Storage Media
SD Memory Card, SDHC Memory Card, MultiMediaCard
File Format
Design rule for camera file system, DPOF Version 1.1
Image Compression
Still Image: Exif 2.2 (JPEG)
Movie: AVI (Image: Motion JPEG; Audio: WAVE (Monaural))
JPEG Compression Mode
Normal, Fine, SuperFine
Number of Recording Pixels
Still Image: 640 x 480 (Small), 1,600 x 1,200 (Medium 3), 2,048 x 1,536 (Medium 2), 2,592 x 1,944 (Medium 1), 3,264 x 2,448 (Large), 3,264 x 1,832 (Widescreen)
Movie: 640 x 480 / 320 x 240 (30 fps/15 fps) available up to 1GB or 1 hour for each file size, 160 x 120 (3 min. at 15 fps)
Number of Recordable Images


The problem is that Macro settings on regular point an shoots are not truely macro.

Macro is a lens not a setting.

[bushy]

This is a macro lens

infact one of the bast because it has a 5:1 Magnification,

The magnification is in the lens.


macro lens' also have smaller lens' inside

[scyre]

yes, "macro" on point and shoots is a misnomer. it has come to mean close up focus, when true macro is a 1:1 reproduction- if the subject is 1 cm in real life, the image produced by the lens (on the sensor) is 1 cm. in many cases you are focusing from fairly far away for macro.
on my canon s3 p&s, there is a "super macro" mode where it can focus from 0cm (it can focus on dust on the lens), but im unsure of the magnification ratio and do not believe it to be true macro, but there are attachments made by raynox that can give you greater than 1:1 reproduction